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Hot legs and hood top bow

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bugedd

bugedd

Jedi Knight
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I just got back from the Dixon all British meet, 2 hour drive each way, and my legs really got to cooking! It was only 80 degrees out, but the radiant heat off the tunnel really got warm. So my question is what do people do for this issue? I'm looking at a 5 day Napa road trip, would like to cool it down. Most of the heat seems to be from the tunnel where the panels are, and some from the carpeted area as well.
Also, now that I have a roll bar in the car, the one piece top bow is too cumbersome, so if anyone has a split type to sell or trade, PM me. Thanks!
 
I'm running the stick on heating duct insulation available at any Lowes or Menards. It helps and costs peanuts compared to the high priced auto stuff. Bill M turned me on to the stuff. His cars are similarly equipped.


Kurt.
 
One more thing that I did to slow the cooking is to seal up the openings that the peddles go thru- those holes let in a LOT of heat!
BillM
 
How did you seal up the pedal boxes?
 
Know what you mean! I prevented that by installing heat shields.

P1030878.jpg
 
I like the heat shields idea, what did you use and how did you attach them?
 
I used: https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...5-P?navigationPath=L1*14932|L2*14983|L3*15320

I will say that this product works very well; bonded adhesively which makes it a pain to install even when the engine is out. You have to cut it with metal sheers and you need to ware leather gloves while handling it, pre-fit everything carefully. The adhesive works best if the sheet metal is cleaned and painted on your car. You will not be able to remove or reposition or make adjustments once you start.
 
Ed, that's the stuff I used. Very easy to apply. I imagine there are better ways but for the price I think it was worth it.

Kurt
 
Thanks guys! Looks like I have some work to do :smile:
 
bugedd said:
Kurt and Bill, is this the stuff you used?
https://www.lowes.com/pd_28929-1410-FV516___?productId=1081449&pl=1&Ntt=duct+insulation
Click to expand...

I also use this with great effect. Over the trans tunnel and in the footwell. Made a big difference. It has adhesive but it is not a strong tack so it can be easily removed later.

Unless your heater plenum tray is blocked under the heater core (or if you have no heater and the plenum opening is blocked), a lot of hot air will come in through the heater vents regardless if the cable-controlled flap is closed. Engine compartment pressure at cruise is higher than ambient and so air is forced into the heater plenum around hoses and such. Blocking that air was the next biggest relief for me. I also had to make a heat shield in front of the footwell as I am using the stock Datsun exhaust manifold and the S-shaped down pipe is close to the footwell at one point.

Important: Stop the radiated heat, but also stop the air-carried heat.
 
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