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TR5/TR250 Horns

Nose

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I cannot get both horns working together. Only one horn works. I have juice running to all 4 terminals on the horns. Any suggestions. Thinking that I might have made a dumb mistake and not realized that one of my horns is defective, I just got done jumping the hot wires to the horn that works, to the terminals to the horn that doesn't work, and it honked, and sounded good. Then I jumped the hot wires to the horn that doesn't work to the terminals of the horn that has been working, and the horn did not work....so now I am really confused...I have juice to all the wires, but the right horn does not work
 
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It turns out that when I bought my new Motolita steering wheel, the push horn button wasn't making good contact. So I bought a replacement push horn button for my new motolita steering wheel, and it doesn't work either. I hard wired my horns to a remote push button and the horns work great. My problem is not in the horns or the wiring to and from the horns. The problem is the push horn buttons....any suggestions how to make these things work...
 
With horns ..when they malfunction it's usually a problem with the ground.
Have you tried this ?
 
If one horn works but not the other, the problem isn't in the horn button.

If you have voltage at both horns, but one doesn't work, the horn is defective.

If the non-working horn operates when you jumper it, the horn is OK but the wiring is faulty. Or possibly the horn has an intermittent bad connection.

Since you've ruled out all of these, your measurements aren't right. Try measuring the voltage at the horn contacts again--slide the spade connector back a little and measure at the spade that emerges from the horn itself, not just the connector. Measure the voltage between those two contacts, not just from the "hot" one to ground. I'll bet you get zero, and the wiring or connectors are faulty.
 
If one horn works but not the other, the problem isn't in the horn button.

If you have voltage at both horns, but one doesn't work, the horn is defective.

If the non-working horn operates when you jumper it, the horn is OK but the wiring is faulty. Or possibly the horn has an intermittent bad connection.

Since you've ruled out all of these, your measurements aren't right. Try measuring the voltage at the horn contacts again--slide the spade connector back a little and measure at the spade that emerges from the horn itself, not just the connector. Measure the voltage between those two contacts, not just from the "hot" one to ground. I'll bet you get zero, and the wiring or connectors are faulty.
will do, thanks for the advice
 
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