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TR6 Hoping for advice on 1972 TR6

Julian,

Having been there and still there-
I say "RUN AWAY!!"

I started with a better car than your potential purchase
(in looks anyway), I do almost all the labor myself and
still I have poured $32K into repairing the beast with 45
miles the longest distance it has traveled without a
breakdown.

Too many things looked screwy about the car.

Take your time, ask around, have the club members see
what's around - you'll end up with a fun car you can
work on. Not a danged money pit you come to hate.

tinster
 
Tinster...$32K and 45 miles....??

You probably have one of the most envious Ebay feedbacks of the entire forum.

For that kind of money you could have bought into partnership with The Roadster Factory and got lifetime free salty carnuts.
 
Seems to be a problem with the front left differential mount is broken.
 

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Yeah Box,

I have to keep my sense of humor or all would be lost.

Including the $10k my wife paid for it; I figure it has
cost me in the neighborhood of $6,000. to $7,000. per hour hour to drive the Crypt Car.

But I am positive year my 2008 costs driving Amos around
the island will quickly bring that figure downward to something more reasonable.

I still say Julian needs to "Run Away!"

d
 
From the looks of the weather, you might as well be working on a project because there appears to be plenty of rain in your neck of the Island. Hope you are not having any difficulty weather wise.
 
TR6oldtimer said:
Seems to be a problem with the front left differential mount is broken.

Well spotted! That looks like a bolt hanging down. Does that indicate it's broken, or not attached, or is it maybe something else? I will try to get a closer look when I look at the car again.

The owner says the seats are not original. They sure need cleaning, but they look OK. I'm not bothered by lack of originality.

The exterior paint colour is green, but in various other places I see blue, so I suppose there has been a respray. Again, that doesn't bother me as I would need to repaint anyway, and could return to the original colour.

Here's a couple more photos.

The trunk:
https://farm2.static.flickr.com/1224/1162940475_f250620231_o.jpg

Offside rear underside:
https://farm2.static.flickr.com/1234/1163795316_dfbd89daf9_o.jpg

Dash close-up. What control should be in that central hole I wonder?
https://farm2.static.flickr.com/1186/1162570005_b55c172554_o.jpg


Many thanks for all the useful comments and warnings so far!
 
The instrument panel dimmer switch goes in that hole.

The car shows rust along the rear deck where they connect with the fenders. Looks as if at one time someone noticed this and placed tape over the seam, as they did with the tail lights. Take a flash light and look up under the trunk area where the panels meet the upper deck, and in the areas where the tail lights are. Look for rust. Also with the flash light, check up under the fenders for rust damage.

The hood of the car looks to be bent where it meets the cowl. May or may not need repair.

The frame where the trailing arms attach looks ok, but should be carefully checked for rust.

Be sure to lift the carpet and inspect the floors for rust damage.



The differential mounts on a TR6 are notorious for breaking. Repair kits are available, but will need welding to correct the fault. This can be done with the body on, but is best done with it off.

When you can, get the commission numbers on the body and engine to determine of year manufacture.
 
ibid with Ray's comments but the T/A brackets look
pretty crusty to me. A T/A bushings replacement project
is almost a given with this car. Maybe it's the photo
but I see rust in that rear end frame.

The trunk alone is another big red flag.

Having just replaced my dash board I've been pretty
up close to it. I think the dash in this car is a not
very well executed do-it-yourselfer. It looks like a
hack job to me and in the photo it appears to be poorly
stained Home Depot plywood. And the gauges are crooked
and ill fitting as well.

Run away...............run away................

IMO this is a parts car not a restoration project car.

tinster
dashboard2.jpg
[/img]
 
Tinster said:
ibid with Ray's comments but the T/A brackets look
pretty crusty to me. A T/A bushings replacement project
is almost a given with this car. Maybe it's the photo
but I see rust in that rear end frame.

The trunk alone is another big red flag.

Thanks Ray and Tinster: I really appreciate the detailed analysis. What aspect of the trunk raises the red flag?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]

Having just replaced my dash board I've been pretty
up close to it. I think the dash in this car is a not
very well executed do-it-yourselfer. It looks like a
hack job to me and in the photo it appears to be poorly
stained Home Depot plywood. And the gauges are crooked
and ill fitting as well.

[/QUOTE]

Yes! I see exactly what you mean. The holes look like they have been made inexpertly with a hacksaw. The owner emphasised the quality of the dash, so this could be an excellent bargaining point!

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]

Run away...............run away................

IMO this is a parts car not a restoration project car.

tinster
dashboard2.jpg
[/img] [/QUOTE]

OK, but are there any upsides? As a parts car what might its value be ... $2000, more, or less?

I read your article on replacement of the T/A bushings: excellent!

Edited:

Continuing on the theme of the dicky dashboard, here's a shot of the wiring behind. I think I see what looks like a rheostat for the hole that should have the instrument light dimmer control. Perhaps a DPO replaced the dash with a homemade unit in a bit of a hurry, and failed to cable it all up again?

https://farm2.static.flickr.com/1347/1176938734_373487053d_o.jpg
 
A couple years ago I bought a '72 TR6 that looked about like this one for $3500. It had a weak motor and cheap paintjob, but the frame and suspension were great. Then I bought a donor car with a rebuilt motor for $900 and put the 2 cars together.
I sold the donor car for $1200 and have been driving this TR6 almost daily, doing about 12k miles per year.
I could care less about 100% correct trailer queens. These cars are meant to be driven, not polished.
If the bones are good and the price is right, buy it. Increase it's value and road-worthiness with your sweat and labor, and get on the road and feel the torque from these great classic sports cars.
 
cobbled,cobbled, cobbled. The guys whole lot looks like "buy here pay here..we tote the note" If I am wrong...let him sue me.
 
BOXoROCKS said:
cobbled,cobbled, cobbled. The guys whole lot looks like "buy here pay here..we tote the note" If I am wrong...let him sue me.

So here's an update. Short version: I think you're right!

I went back and asked him to open the hood and start the engine. It wasn't pretty, but it started up, coughing and spluttering, after he'd sprayed some stuff around (I don't know what it was, but he was pretty liberal with it!)

The VIN number is CF8248U, and he said today that it's a 1973. Here's a couple of views under the bonnet:

https://farm2.static.flickr.com/1314/1197828192_07ed2c9e96_b.jpg

https://farm2.static.flickr.com/1167/1197832502_65c1826adb_b.jpg

I told him I'd offer him $2000 for it. This was met with derisive laughter, which didn't endear me to him. He claimed he'd paid $4000 for it himself, which I don't believe for a second, especially as he'd offered it to me for $3995 on the phone a few days ago! He went on to say that they were "about to start work on it today", and all the things they were going to do to it. Nonsense, of course - if it were true, why hadn't they already done it? When he said he wasn't even prepared to discuss the price, I walked. Frankly, I don't want to do business with someone like that, no matter how good a deal it may be. And this was an iffy deal at best, even at $2000.

So I am still looking for a TR6/4/5 restoration project. If you hear of anything you think may be suitable, please send me a pointer.
 
The car (body anyway) is a '73. You did the right thing. There will be others.
 
Parts car for sure!

Ya done good to walk away from that scow.

Keep looking, you'll fine a decent car at
a decent price.

I think you just met DPO Pedro's American cousin
and survived the scam attempt.

congrats,

d
 
Runnnnnnnnnn Forrest Runnnnnnnnn.
 
An ad came through from the Texas Triumph Club I belong. The new owner got a '76 TR6 through an estate sale. It's been in storage since 1983 with 43,000 miles on it. The owner didn't give me a price. I'll give you his number if you send me a PM. -It might be more smoke and mirrors?

Jerry
 
You guys are so lucky over there. That car is immaculate compared to what we have to rebuild over here. Granted it has obviously had a front-end shunt and the front of the bonnet and wings full of filler, but wow, look at that rear valance! However, you are right to walk away from it as you should never buy a car off a seller like that.

Also if Tinster is warning you against it it must be a bad car!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Hi There JJ;

I had purchased a `72 TR6 from "California Classix" a couple of yrs back & She was just outstanding: You may want to check some these Sites out:

https://www.californiaclassix.com
https://www.bcclv.com (East Coast)
https://www.cptc.org (East Coast)
https://www.britishcarforum.com (Of Course):
https://www.vtr.org )(Vintage Triumph Register)
https://www.hemmings.com

Have Fun;

Regards, Russ

PS: You did the right thing by walking away from that "Pieced Together" thing of a TR6/bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/banana.gif
 
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