• Hey Guest!
    British Car Forum has been supporting enthusiasts for over 25 years by providing a great place to share our love for British cars. You can support our efforts by upgrading your membership for less than the dues of most car clubs. There are some perks with a member upgrade!

    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Upgraded members don't see this banner, nor will you see the Google ads that appear on the site.)
Tips
Tips

Hood stiffening

No, but that is another thing that I wished I had done to my car before painting it.

I have seen dual gas prop rods that hold it straight when it's open.
 
I use 1/4" rebar for all kinds of reinforcing.
Especially Bugeye bonnet wheel openings.
Bugeye doors where they rip over time along the inside latch side.
I'm sure the 1/4" rod will work on the square body hoods, just keep it inside the drip channel.
 
True enough, X frames are good for reducing torsional movement and that 1/4 inch bar sounds like a good material for it.

If I were doing it, I think would laminate some thin foam and carbon cloth directly to the inside of the bonnet in an X shape. 1/4 inch foam about an inch wide and cover with 2 1/2 inches width carbon cloth, resined nicely up. It will be the stiffest part of the car.
 
Frank,

What kind of a welding machine does one need to do this stuff? (with the re-bar, I mean)
 
I already have some 3/8 slick rod. Just cold rolled stuff I bought for another project. Hmmm. I could cut me two long pieces and flatten the ends down in my press to where they would be wide enough to drill a bolt hole in the ends and mount them to the existing frame rails. I would also need to flatten them in the middle where they crossed, or maybe not.
 
Kim, instead of flattening in the center, why not do a cut 1/2 way through each and weld them together?
 
Back
Top