TR4/4A Hood Jammed

[jrvalente]

The hood on my TR4A is jammed and the release cable snapped. I am thinking I have to jack up the car and try to free it from underneath. Anyone have any suggestions???

 

[carpecursusII]

https://buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Bonnet/Bonnet.htm

 

[jrvalente]

This is very helpful - some good ideas - one issue I think I may have is that they have an older version of the hood latch on the TR4A (may be part of the issue) So the receiver on the firewall is different. But this approach is helpful. I probably need to get under the car and look up to see what caused the jam in the first palce. The car was in the shop and they may have closed the hood and it was not aligned so it jammed - the alignment was a problem I was going to fix but did not get to it before bringing to the shop.

 

[Geo Hahn]

The TR6 latch may be very similar to the TR4 except for the safety catch & the hook is uses.

The method described seems to be one choice, I have also heard of using a broomstick going in from below to flip the lever. A last resort might be undoing the bonnet hinges.

Here is a look at the latch from a TR4 -- the red arrow shows the hole the 'tool' goes through (no heater in this car) and the yellow arrow the direction you are trying to move the latch.

Here's a look from underneath showing a view of the latch and the direction you need to push it with the broomstick:

I guess you know now that a back-up cable (what I use) or a separate lever operated from under the dash are a good idea.

 

[jrvalente]

all new latch, cable and backup cable on order - unfortunately I have only had the car 3 weeks and it was in the shop for two to go through it and asses if there was any major work (it was determined to be in great shape). The latch replacement was on my list of things to fix when I got it back. Did not realize the hood was jammed and I pulled the release cable and presto I had the lever and cable sitting in my hand. Your broomstick is probably the approach I am going to have to take - I am just wondering how badly it is jammed. I guess I will know by the weekend. Thanks for the update and photos.

 

[Geo Hahn]

If it is jammed (i.e. moving the lever does not seem to free it) I have had success with someone pressing down and releasing the bonnet right above the latch mechanism while someone else attempts to release the latch (broomstick, etc). This was on a bonnet that was jammed but the cable had not broken - but may also help in your situation.

If the striker pin and the catch plate are not well aligned they can jam - this may be what started the whole episode.

 

[charleyf]

If it is jammed (i.e. moving the lever does not seem to free it) I have had success with someone pressing down and releasing the bonnet right above the latch mechanism while someone else attempts to release the latch (broomstick, etc). This was on a bonnet that was jammed but the cable had not broken - but may also help in your situation.

If the striker pin and the catch plate are not well aligned they can jam - this may be what started the whole episode.[/QUOTE

I second the suggestion of having a second person pressing down on the hood directly above the latch area while the other person tries to move the latch.
Though you have already ordered new parts, it is not to likely that the existing parts are the problem. A change of Alignment of the hood or latch itself, a lack of grease on the parts or adjustment of the hood buffers each can cause your problem.
once you get it open there are a number of systems or fixes to add an emergency cable. I bought one from Mark Macy while a friend just looped a cable around the movement , closed the loop and drilled a hole in the panel directly across from the latch. This gives him a direct pull to open the latch.
Charley

 

[Geo Hahn]

The day I got my TR4 I tied a thin rope to the latch and hung it over the right wing - until I could rig a back-up.

I went with a direct pull cable like Charley describes (just a shortened generic cable & handle from the HELP section at the FLAPS) and found an existing hole that worked for it. It can be seen in the photo previously posted:

I will be in the garage this afternoon with the TR4 on the lift and will try to imagine how the broomstick technique might be done -- the photo I showed merely gives you a visualization of what has to happened, in practice you don't have that great view of the parts because of the starter and downpipe being the way.

 

[PeterK]

If you don't have a heater then the blanking plate could be removed. Or even if you do, disconnect the heater hoses and pull the bulkhead plate to get access. Maybe lasso the release arm through the hole. Just thinking looking at Geo's photo, never done it.