Holy Leakin' carbs, Batman

[angelfj1]

UPDATE

We worked late last night preparing for our 1600 mile trip to Galveston, TX.

<span style="font-weight: bold">Would you believe the BLOODY CARBS ARE LEAKING AGAIN - ARRRRRRRRGH1</span>

Don't know what to do at this point. Brian has a theory. He believes that the cup washer is spinning as we turn the banjo bolt and that perhaps this may be distorting the washer thus causing the leak. He was going to try to crazy glue the cup washer to the rubber washer to prevent the spinning. I'm skeptical but we don't know what else to do.

Your suggestions are welcome and we will be off for Texas early Sunday morning.

Cheers,

Frank

 

[Member 10617]

Sp53,

Where did you obtain your brackets?

 

[sp53]

I made them out of a small piece of stainless steel flat stock. They are small and easy to make and they tighten the whole system up. Without them, I could wiggle the bowl easily. There is only about 2 psi of fuel pressure there, so the rubber does not have to be very tight; the problem is that vibration starts cutting into the two pieces of rubber as it shakes from the engine running. Perhaps TRF has them for the tr2.

 

[Member 10617]

Thanks. I don't have the equipment to fabricate them myself, so I will check with TRF.


UPDATE: I check with TRF... they don't have the item.

 

[Number_6]

I had the same problem with leaking carbs also. I chucked all of the float to carb seals parts and replaced them with these parts from the Moss catalog:
116 370-030 $1.50 WASHER, cupped (steel)
118 370-021 $1.95 GROMMET, float bowl mounting
Note: Made of Viton. Included in the standard rebuild kit.
115 370-080 $13.25 BOLT, float bowl mounting
This greatly simplifies the float to carb seal using just 3 parts (2 rubber seals and a washer). The parts are interchangeable with the other seals. I rebuilt my H6 carbs about 3 years ago and haven't had any leaks since.

 

[Member 10617]

Number 6,

I thought these were the seals others were using but having trouble with them. I, too, used these seals from Moss and haven't had any trouble with leaking. My leaks, really just a kind of sweating, comes at the banjo bolt/fiber washer area. A slight retightening from time to time seems to take care of it.

 

[TR3driver]

I made them out of a small piece of stainless steel flat stock. They are small and easy to make

Is the length such that they support the bowl "as installed"? IOW, does the bowl sag a bit (as it compresses the rubber washers) when you disconnect the brace?

Also, any idea what thickness of stainless you used? I don't suppose it matters much, but most of what I have around looks to be quite a bit heavier than yours.

 

[Number_6]

Number 6,

I thought these were the seals others were using but having trouble with them. I, too, used these seals from Moss and haven't had any trouble with leaking. My leaks, really just a kind of sweating, comes at the banjo bolt/fiber washer area. A slight retightening from time to time seems to take care of it.

I didn't use a fiber washer, I used the 'cupped steel washer' which I think probably works better. I also used a very fine emery paper to polish all of the mating surfaces and tightened the banjo bolt until the rubber seals just slightly bulged a small amount. Since then I've never needed to do anything with them. I've let the car sit for weeks without any fuel leaking.

 

[sp53]

I made them out of stainless sheet metal somewhere between a 1/16 and 1/32. Stainless is a hard metal and holds it form pretty well, but again they are thin. Anyways I bolted the bowl up tight and then bent them with pliers until they acted like a brace on a parallel plane that fits on a screw on the dome and the one on top of the bowl. I drill the two holes in a larger piece for work ability and then trimmed it down for looks.
steve