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Holley fuel regulator questions

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steveg

steveg

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I've had one of these on the shelf for 10 years. I reinstalled it and it doesn't appear to work. Changing the adjustment doesn't change the pressure gauge at all. It stays at this high figure.

Do I need a rebuild kit - or a new regulator? Can anyone offer experience-based advice on what's happening here?

screenshot.1541.jpg
 
However, it does need to be able to bleed off, so loosen the gauge from the body, to simulate flow. Even though you backed it off, the max pressure has nowhere to go.
 
Steve--

If you are using an SU fuel pump you really do not need any fuel pressure regulator as the output of 2-4 psi's matches up to the carburettors' min/max requirements

I have one of these--matched up to a Holly Blue (higher pressure) fuel pump--on my Elva Courier only because I was experiencing fuel starvation at WOT and when coming out of tight right-handed turns that no amount of float adjustment or bowl reorientation would solve. Simply jacking up the fuel pressure to about 5.5 psi eliminated both problems and, despite dire warnings to the contrary, never resulted in any flooding, etc.
 
Michael Oritt said:
Steve--

If you are using an SU fuel pump you really do not need any fuel pressure regulator as the output of 2-4 psi's matches up to the carburettors' min/max requirements

I have one of these--matched up to a Holly Blue (higher pressure) fuel pump--on my Elva Courier only because I was experiencing fuel starvation at WOT and when coming out of tight right-handed turns that no amount of float adjustment or bowl reorientation would solve. Simply jacking up the fuel pressure to about 5.5 psi eliminated both problems and, despite dire warnings to the contrary, never resulted in any flooding, etc.
Click to expand...

Michael - I've been using a Facet gold box pump almost since I got the car in early 2000.

I'm looking to get to the BJ8 spec of 1.5 psi (48" head) and 18 gph. Was wondering if, at that pressure, my pump puts out enough gph for my rebuilt engine.
 
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Got the Holley diaphragm installed. Backing off on the 4 diaphragm screws allows pressure to bleed off. Finally got it set to just under 2 psi. Will report back when I've done the flow.

screenshot.1544.jpg
 
Did the final science project:

Bought 10 ft of clear tubing and hung it from the garage rafters. When I first started the pump the level climbed about 7 ft and drained into the overflow gallon can I'd set up.

Used the regulator to adjust the pump pressure back to a head of 48". This equaled 2 psi on the gauge.

Then I tested the flow at that pressure - 57 oz in a minute. 26.7 gph. Well over the BJ8 specs.

Then took the car for a drive. Seemed leaner than before, which is good, as I was getting 10mpg.

When I got back to my garage, the pressure gauge was showing zero psi. Car was still running fine.

I don't understand how the regulator works - is the zero because the carbs were full. I could feel the pump vibrating, but the output from the regulator not so.
 
I believe you are over thinking this.

Leave all the regulator housing screws fully tightened. (Loosening them will 1) allow leaks, and 2) alters the pressure setting you are trying to make with the adjusting screw). Loosen the regulator jam nut and adjusting screw. Start the engine. While the engine is idling, turn the adjusting screw in to increase pressure to what you want. Tighten the jam nut and you are done. Obviously this will be easier with a pressure gauge screwed into the regulator.

Holley's instructions are in the link below.
https://www.jegs.com/InstallationInstructions/500/510/510-12-803BP.pdf

The link below is a thread discussing adjustments while the engine is running.
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=81644
 
dklawson said:
I believe you are over thinking this.

Leave all the regulator housing screws fully tightened. (Loosening them will 1) allow leaks, and 2) alters the pressure setting you are trying to make with the adjusting screw). Loosen the regulator jam nut and adjusting screw. Start the engine. While the engine is idling, turn the adjusting screw in to increase pressure to what you want. Tighten the jam nut and you are done. Obviously this will be easier with a pressure gauge screwed into the regulator.

Holley's instructions are in the link below.
https://www.jegs.com/InstallationInstructions/500/510/510-12-803BP.pdf

The link below is a thread discussing adjustments while the engine is running.
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=81644
Click to expand...

Ditto
 
I'll agree as well and do not see how you are going to affect the fuel consumption (gph) by adjusting fuel pressure down unless you are willing to run in a constantly lean fuel- starved state.
 
To clarify, I'm running my regulator at 48" head (factory BJ8 spec) where my Facet gold box pump is delivering 26.7 gph (vs spec of 18 gph). No starvation going on.

Evidently when the float chambers are full and the float needles are shut, the pump runs but delivers zero psi.

These AFRs were at idle, after a 5 mile drive, while showing zero psi on the fuel pressure gauge.

This is with Martin Jansen's 5/16" float level which results in OzHealey's 3/16" jet fuel level. Rich UN needles.

With the AFR gauges, I'll be working towards improving on my current 10+ mpg mileage.

screenshot.1548.jpg
 
Steve--

My apologies--I somehow came away with the idea that you were seeking by adjusting the fuel pump regulator to achieve 18 mpg as opposed to gph.

What do the AFR gauges show at constant cruising speeds of 2500-3000 rpm's? Your current fuel economy of 10 mpg is about the lowest I have ever seen reported for a Healey!
 
Michael Oritt said:
Steve--

My apologies--I somehow came away with the idea that you were seeking by adjusting the fuel pump regulator to achieve 18 mpg as opposed to gph.

What do the AFR gauges show at constant cruising speeds of 2500-3000 rpm's? Your current fuel economy of 10 mpg is about the lowest I have ever seen reported for a Healey!
Click to expand...

Michael - Ha ha - I've made those mistakes myself!

Just got the gauges installed today and only took a short drive on streets and a local road at 50 mph. Will report back after some freeway driving.

The business of "head" on the fuel pump - I'm responding to a post by Larry Varley on the email list re using head to set the regulator pressure. It seems to me to be more accurate than the fuel pressure gauges. I made a setup in my garage with a clear tube attached to a piece of electrical conduit so I could set my regulator according to pump head.

I think some combo of needles, richness and float level should get me to 14-15mpg around town.

screenshot.1549.jpg
 
Bob_Spidell said:
cotd
Click to expand...

I never ran across this acronym until just now when I browsed through the topic and saw it in Bob's post #4. So I googled "COTD meaning".
I don't want to incur Reid's wrath and all I will say is that the definition given at the "internet slang" site is quite different from that of the "Urban Dictionary" site.
I think I know the one to which Bob was referring.
 
Michael Oritt said:
I never ran across this acronym until just now when I browsed through the topic and saw it in Bob's post #4. So I googled "COTD meaning".
I don't want to incur Reid's wrath and all I will say is that the definition given at the "internet slang" site is quite different from that of the "Urban Dictionary" site.
I think I know the one to which Bob was referring.
Click to expand...
:scared:
 
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