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Hmmm - no timing mark on the pulley. Now what?

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T

tdskip

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Seems I have a number of things that have gone missing on this car. Choke adjustment screws, matching needle sets, all sorts of stuff. And now I find the timing mark has gone bye-bye.

Get her to TDC and put some paint on the pulley as an approximation?

EDIT - Wait, the timing mark on the pulley is simply a small v-shaped notch, yes?
 
White touch-up paint.
 
Liquid Paper in a bottle. :thumbsup:
 
For the 1275... the timing marker tape kit from Advanced Distributors.
 
Thanks guys - got paint on it. Now I just need a swivel head on my shoulders to actually see the darn mark under the call!
 
tdskip said:
Now I just need a swivel head on my shoulders to actually see the darn mark under the call!
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That's what small children are for. :devilgrin:
 
davester said:
That's what small children are for. :devilgrin:
Click to expand...

Ha! About time there was a productive use for them.

I'm at 20 degrees around 1k RPM, advance <span style="font-weight: bold">not</span> disconnected. Where do you guys like to run?

EDIT - it is 20 with the advanced blocked as well. She has a 1098 with a Jeff rebuild Distributor running a Pertronix system.
 
Personally, I think it is best to set things up so that you're just under 35 degrees at maximum advance (say 3500 rpm) and let the idle setting fall where it may. The idle advance is not particularly important, but the max advance is. This will require adding more paint marks.
 
davester said:
Personally, I think it is best to set things up so that you're just under 35 degrees at maximum advance (say 3500 rpm) and let the idle setting fall where it may. The idle advance is not particularly important, but the max advance is. This will require adding more paint marks.
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That was Hap's advice to me with the motor he built for me. About 32 degrees at 3500 RPM or so, with the vacuum advance unhooked and plugged at both ends.

Also, you really want to move that timing pointer up to the top. Makes *all* the difference.
 
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