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Hibernating Spridgets

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Baz

Baz

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Dug around the Knowledge Base looking for steps and tips for hibernating Spridgets, couldn't find anything specific. There are different opinions, styles, and steps and levels of hibernation out there; what I'd like to do is get as much of them together so it can go to a contributor and then in the knowledge base, so every late fall and spring we can refer to it.
So, topics would be storage and bleeding fluids, brakes, gas tanks etc.
Keeping the car 'comatose' and running it every now and again.
Stripping parts and freezing weather effects on fluidless or dismantled motors.
Then, the reverse in spring, waking them up happily.
Again, there's different opinions as to best practices, just thought I'd compile the most obvious and common for different scenarios for future use.
Let me have 'em....
 
Timely topic, I'll be doing the same soon and interested in responses.
 
Park it inside and turn off the key and disconnect the battery. Change the oil in the spring.
 
A little Sta bil for the fuel helps those issues. If you keep the car outside, bring the battery inside. Talk to it during the cold times. Make sure you have an antifreeze mix in. Read the Forum weekly if not more.
 
yeah... and on those cold winter afternoons, just sit in the open garage and reeev that baby so the neighbors can hear .. some thing like the hot rodders do! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
Option 1: Move to a warmer climate

Option 2: Wait until a warmer climate moves to you (it won't be long).
 
Is it better to have no fuel, a little fuel with sta bil, or a full tank with sta bil, if storing indoors?
 
Full tank always.
 
Does anyone ritually bleed the brakes, pump the pedal every week? Turn the motor over? Put extra oil in to drain in spring?
Just thinking back to an old mini I had that didn't do Welsh winters very well.
In spring, do we all do a full tune up, carbs, valve clearences, tranny fluid etc?
 
A totally full tank is not a good thing during the Winter. When it gets warmer in the Spring and the fuel expands it may overflow and cause damage to your paint.
 
to keep ur clutch from sticking u might engage it from underneath and block it in place...without engaging the hydraulics of course...
i plan on driving mine unless it gets reeeally cold...i wear coveralls most the time anyhow ..zimmmy
 
Well there's full and there's full. The fuller the tank the less condensation you will get, so keep it full still with room to expand.
 
I think my clutch fluid got some moisture in it from the dampness in the shed and expanded and broke the plastic top
 
Timely indeed! S'posed to snow here tonight.
1. brake and clutch hydraulics. suck out old fluid from reservoir, install new, and plastic bag over reservoir then screw on cap. (caps are vented)(flush in spring?)
2. Change oil in engine (and trans?) Fresh oil (without fuel fumes) will not acidify and eat bearings.
3. WD40 linkages and cables, exposed metal surfaces like carb bodies, distributor, etc.
4. Remove battery and store.
5. Stabil in fuel seems to work.
6. Consider mothballing interior and engine bay as mouse/rat prevention. I'm open for better ideas on that.
7. Be sure anti-freeze wont

.... anyway, that's what I do.
Better is probably to drive frequently, but then I end up de-salting the car. Hassle.

Peter C.
 
What's the deal with the plastic squares I see the motorhome owners parking their vehicles on. Is there something with having the tires contact the asphalt? Does the oil in the asphalt do something to the rubber over time? It seems to be the "rage" lately in the neighborhood!
 
re #6 I have read that oil of peppermint on cotton balls in the car work well or peppermint altoids(they have peppermint oil in them) or possibly bounce or downy sheets also /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/driving.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/canpatriot.GIF
 
Gesh, the start of good driveing weather here.

But don't forget to drain the old fuel from the carbs and take the weight of of the tires. New oil and top everything up including fuel in tank with a stabalizer. Anti freeze checked. washers empty including hoses.

Cover all with a plastic sheet loosly so it breathes but dirt does not get on it.

Spray electrical with WD 40, Just a bit, and engine parts and carbs with some spray on oil. Also springs and suspension. I have stored military vehicles for up to four years with just a add battery and go. It really works.
 
I live in KC and I really enjoy driving the bugeye during the dry winter days. Things look a little different out of the ole bugeye. It's good for the attitude. With the top (hood) up and the side curtains the speakers really sound good. The down side is any temp below 25, the heater isn't up to it. Changing the oil in the spring is a good thing because of condensation from the changing temps can leave water in the oil.
 
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