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DarfVader62

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I have a 62 3000 Mk II (tri-carb). A guy at a meet said he used the Prestone flush kit with good results - engine running about 20 F cooler. A Triumph friend said he's been afraid to try it. Any insight on this (procedure, etc) would be helpful. Thermostat opens at 160, car rapidly gets to 190 while moving and gets to 210-220 at stop lights and in stop and go traffic. I just think it ought to run cooler. I have just had the radiator re-cored and fin count increased by 50%.

#2. After the car sat for a while the carb floats (brass) developed microcracks and filled with gas. I replaced them. Everything was fine for a little while and then the new brass float in carb 1 developed the same kind of microcrack and it sank. Could excess fuel pressure cause the float to rise and fall fast enough to stress the float and crack it? I know it sounds like a weird question; maybe I just got a bad float.
 
Welcome

Sorry, can't answer questions, lil healey here.

Water wetter will help lower your temp by about five degrees.
 
DarfVader62 said:
Could excess fuel pressure cause the float to rise and fall fast enough to stress the float and crack it? I know it sounds like a weird question; maybe I just got a bad float.
Click to expand...
Welcome Darf,
I would think not. With the pressure needed to do that, the float wouldn't have enough buoyancy to shut off the flow. I'll vote bad float. I've never done it (for fear of a fire in my face), but I've heard of people soldering the cracks shut. You might find that info doing a search here.
 
I think I would find a new float. I did the rad flush miracle in a can trick and used wetter the water and got my temps way down.

Mark
 
Hi Darf,
I ran into the same problem with a couple floats.There is no way a vented carb bowl could build enough pressure to crack a float.Floats aren't too expensive,so do yourself a favor and buy some new ones.The overheating problem sounds pretty interesting.How many rpm's does this engine idle at?This reminds me of either too much flow or not enough flow.This really reminds me of the coolant is running through the radiator so fast, it doesn't have enough time to cool in the radiator.Are you sure about that thermostat?You might want to check that.
Hope this helps
Bobby R
 
I tried soldering the first bad float. The procedure is supposed to be (1) drill two "one-eighth" inch holes in the float to drain the gas then (2) solder to seal. I was wary of drilling into gasoline, but it worked. The problem was trying to get the solder to stick. Couldn't get enough temp with a soldering gun, so I bought a brazing torch and tried that. The job didn't look too good. I sealed the holes, but the original microcracks didn't seal. The 3rd step in the process was to order new floats. I gave up on the brazing approach once and for all when I picked up the hot bowl too soon after brazing. Live and learn. Thanks for your response.
 
DarfVader62 said:
I have a 62 3000 Mk II (tri-carb). A guy at a meet said he used the Prestone flush kit with good results - engine running about 20 F cooler. A Triumph friend said he's been afraid to try it. Any insight on this (procedure, etc) would be helpful. Thermostat opens at 160, car rapidly gets to 190 while moving and gets to 210-220 at stop lights and in stop and go traffic.
Click to expand...

I think you're good to go. You're not going to get much better results than what you're getting, IMHO. Water wetter may drop it a bit, but if you're already getting those temps, I don't see what a prestone flush will do. 190 is where the engine is supposed to operate at as far as I know, others will know better.

With the BJ8, I get 190 driving and 210-20 at long stops, car runs great.

(BTW, the last time I used the Prestone flush on a GM car, I had the head gasket fail a few weeks later...coincidence?)
 
Hiya Darf.
I had overheating problems, especially at tickover for some considerable time. I tried the lot, water wetter (no difference) flexi-fan (no difference) and lower temperature opening thermostat (delayed the inevitable by 5 minutes). The solution for me came in the form of the Denis Welch Fan. It blows a gale at tickover, and has transformed my Healey from a car only to be driven in the countryside at low temperatures to one where I can tickover in 28 degrees for just as long as I wish.
 
Hi DarfVader62,
Healeys do run hot when moving slow.

I regularly flush my system with the Prestone flush kit. A simple way to do it, is to disconnect the left heater hose from the valve on the engine block. Add the T-connector there and then add another short tube back to the valve. Make sure the heater valve is open so as to clean the heater radiator too. Remove the thermostat. Follow the Prestone directions. You'd be amazed how much rusty water comes out with the solution vs. not using it. My thought is that maybe, just maybe there is a clog somewhere that is being opened. Anyway, maybe just piece of mind that your system is as clean as it can be.

Using a stainless steel flex fan will also help.

Using a more modern radiator core helps too. (which you have done).

Make sure your water pump is working.

Make sure your thermostat is working. (which you have done).

I too think you're running just about as good as the rest of us.
Adding the water wetter may help, but more as a band-aid solution to a too hot running Healey.

Best of luck.
Roger
 
I checked that after I got the new float installed. Looks like 1200 rpm after about 5 minutes. You've put it on my list to find out what it should be running at. Thanks.
 
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