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Hesitation

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TR4A_IRS

TR4A_IRS

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Today is a day of questions for me. Must mean I have been driving my car.

Quite often I experience a bit of hesitation, you might also describe it as bogging, when I push the accelerator. If I keep the accelerator down, the engine seems to get back to normal, or cease bogging, after a few seconds.

I haven't started messing with carbs yet, but am feeling the need to address this.

Does this sound like a carburetion or timing problem?

My two guesses at this point are that the carbs are over damped, or the ignition isn't properly advancing.

Any thoughts?
 
I had similar symptoms in my 6... turned out to be a bad coil. Put a new one in and all is good now!
 
Actually, I was thinking just the opposite : the carbs may be underdamped leading to a lean bog. Maybe not enough oil in the dampers, or too light.

Not likely to be a timing issue, IMO, although it could be weak ignition as Elliot suggests.
 
Thanks for the suggestions.

Randall, I guess that makes sense. I am planning to check the carb oil level, and if it is correct, I have some carb oil on the shelf I can use to replace what is in there now, which I think is 10W-40 motor oil.

Are there any easy ways to check the coil, besides replacing? I have a multimeter, and that is the extent of my electrical test equipment.
 
There are some tests you can do, but substitution is the only definitive test. Primary resistance (between the two side terminals) should be around 3 to 4 ohms; secondary (center to either side) around 10k to 20k. And all terminals should show open to the case.

FWIW, my almost dead Lucas Sports coil (not even 2 years old yet) shows about 500k on the secondary.
 
Randall,

Thanks for the coil test info. I think I will test just for fun. I keep forgetting how long I have had the car. That coil is probably 15 years old, even if it doesn't have a lot of miles on it...
 
The real definitive test is a coil tester! I have an OLD Snap-On one (no OSHA cover over the spark gap), tests output voltage with a spark gap, then a "heat" mode, run it in "heat" for prescribed time, then re-test hot, needs to be within so may KV's of cold.
Mine even had a condensor test function.
Been VERY handy over the years. I did a set-up on the bench once, went through 25-30 old coils I had in a box, pitched about 1/4 of them, marked the others tested, good, with a date on it.
I'm a bit tied up with relatives in town this week, and the ABFM Saturday, but if you want to come over with the car, I can test it in place for you.
Dave
 
Dave, you gonna have your car there? Bellevue?
 
Yup. You get any of the TRactors running enough to come?
 
Ah. At least not farfegnugen.
I'll try to remember an extra bag of rice so you can let it graze....

Geez, and I ain't been NEAR the Knob Creek.....Really!
 
TOC said:
The real definitive test is a coil tester! I have an OLD Snap-On one (no OSHA cover over the spark gap), tests output voltage with a spark gap, then a "heat" mode, run it in "heat" for prescribed time, then re-test hot, needs to be within so may KV's of cold.
Mine even had a condensor test function.
Been VERY handy over the years. I did a set-up on the bench once, went through 25-30 old coils I had in a box, pitched about 1/4 of them, marked the others tested, good, with a date on it.
I'm a bit tied up with relatives in town this week, and the ABFM Saturday, but if you want to come over with the car, I can test it in place for you.
Dave
Click to expand...

Dave,

I think I will take you up on your offer. I am off to the Olympic Peninsula this weekend, but maybe some time next week?
 
TR4A_IRS said:
Thanks for the suggestions.

Randall, I guess that makes sense. I am planning to check the carb oil level, and if it is correct, I have some carb oil on the shelf I can use to replace what is in there now, which I think is 10W-40 motor oil.

Are there any easy ways to check the coil, besides replacing? I have a multimeter, and that is the extent of my electrical test equipment.
Click to expand...
I did the same routine... added oil to the carbs, checked the timing, etc. even had jeff at advance look at my dizzy.... in the end, it was the coil.
FWIW, I got my Pertronix sports coil on amazon.
 
Gliderman8 said:
FWIW, I got my Pertronix sports coil on amazon.
Click to expand...
And saved a whole $2 over TRF's current price.
 
TR3driver said:
Gliderman8 said:
FWIW, I got my Pertronix sports coil on amazon.
Click to expand...
And saved a whole $2 over TRF's current price.
Click to expand...

Not sure how you come up with a $2 savings... current DELIVERED price for the Pertronix Flamethrower coil on Amazon is $32.95 inclucding shipping.
TRF lists the same coil at $39.95 PLUS shipping unless I missed a current sale they are having.

edit: I stand corrected... I did find the coil on sale at TRF until 7/21 for $34.95 plus $10.25 shipping which still makes it <span style="font-style: italic">$12.25 less on amazon.</span>
 
Unless you're in California, where the California/Amazon Sales Tax law takes effect......
 
Ok, I didn't see the free shipping on Amazon. Likely that's because I belong to Amazon Prime, where I get to pay for "free" shipping.

And of course I bought a cap, rotor, etc. at the same time, so I would have had to pay most of the shipping from TRF anyway.

BTW, Dave, Amazon is refusing to collect CA sales tax. They terminated their contracts with subsidiaries inside CA, so technically they are not subject to the new Internet sales tax law; plus they are fighting to get the law repealed.

IMO the law is legally dubious anyway. A business transaction across state lines is clearly "interstate commerce", which is the Fed's domain. And CA law forbids raising taxes without a supermajority vote.
 
edit: I stand corrected... I did find the coil on sale at TRF until 7/21 for $34.95 plus $10.25 shipping which still makes it <span style="font-style: italic">$12.25 less on amazon.</span> [/quote]

You bought well, Gliderman.
 
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