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Helping a sprite turn into a 3 month DD
- Thread starter saabmp3
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OP
saabmp3
Jedi Hopeful
Offline
Hello all!
Well, I had the first chance in 9 months to visit my baby today. I have to say, the first time I got in and sat down (didn't get a chance to start or drive), I fell in love all over again.
Just a quick update to my driving condition, I procured a VERY cheap jeep, so the healey can be my DD on sunny days only.
Now on to the information that I do have. I did the wheel to flange test. Jacking up one side of the car, I spun a wheel (P185-80R13, not that it matters for this test) as close to one rotation as possible. The car was out of gear, and I watched the driveshaft turn. I found it turned approximatly 2.5 (maybe higher +.1, but not 3 like a 5.9 would require) times for one full rotation of the wheel.
Using a formula on page one, this shows a gear ratio of around 5?!? Any chance I can throw that in my Jeep
This also tells me that the rear end is not locked. Honnestly, I'm getting a little confused as to what happened back there. I know my 2.5-2.7 number is accurate, so my 4500RPM around 50mph is accurate. As an extra measure, I brought a GPS with me to check my speed when I get her running.
So here's the question. When I start her back up on saturday, my plan is to drop some oil into the engine through the spark plugs, manualy turn the shaft (probably by putting in first and hand rolling, if I can). Then I'm going to change the oil.
Should I change the gear oil? What else before the first start?
Ok, assume now that I have a running Healey. What do I do about this rear end? Since the last time I posted here, I got a chance to play around with the rear end in my Jeep, which is basically just a supersized version of this one. Therefore, I feel MUCH more comfortable working on the rear end.
Can I just change out the gears back there for a normal ratio? Besides the gears, everything looked to be in excellent condition.
How much of a project is the gearing going to be? I have to do all of this in a storage unit, so space is going to be my biggest problem.
I guess I'm hoping for some suggestions to my rear diff issue before I move on to other stuff.
Ben
Well, I had the first chance in 9 months to visit my baby today. I have to say, the first time I got in and sat down (didn't get a chance to start or drive), I fell in love all over again.
Just a quick update to my driving condition, I procured a VERY cheap jeep, so the healey can be my DD on sunny days only.
Now on to the information that I do have. I did the wheel to flange test. Jacking up one side of the car, I spun a wheel (P185-80R13, not that it matters for this test) as close to one rotation as possible. The car was out of gear, and I watched the driveshaft turn. I found it turned approximatly 2.5 (maybe higher +.1, but not 3 like a 5.9 would require) times for one full rotation of the wheel.
Using a formula on page one, this shows a gear ratio of around 5?!? Any chance I can throw that in my Jeep
This also tells me that the rear end is not locked. Honnestly, I'm getting a little confused as to what happened back there. I know my 2.5-2.7 number is accurate, so my 4500RPM around 50mph is accurate. As an extra measure, I brought a GPS with me to check my speed when I get her running.
So here's the question. When I start her back up on saturday, my plan is to drop some oil into the engine through the spark plugs, manualy turn the shaft (probably by putting in first and hand rolling, if I can). Then I'm going to change the oil.
Should I change the gear oil? What else before the first start?
Ok, assume now that I have a running Healey. What do I do about this rear end? Since the last time I posted here, I got a chance to play around with the rear end in my Jeep, which is basically just a supersized version of this one. Therefore, I feel MUCH more comfortable working on the rear end.
Can I just change out the gears back there for a normal ratio? Besides the gears, everything looked to be in excellent condition.
How much of a project is the gearing going to be? I have to do all of this in a storage unit, so space is going to be my biggest problem.
I guess I'm hoping for some suggestions to my rear diff issue before I move on to other stuff.
Ben
kcbugeye1275
Jedi Knight
Offline
If you want to know what the ratio is, it is stamped on the outer case of the diff. Looking at the diff from the drive shaft, there is a bolt at the 12 oclock and 10 oclock position. By the 10 oclock bolt there is a curved metal outcropping that has the ratio stamped on it(it will actually be the gear vrs gear). It is easy to see if the axle unit is out of the car, but in the car it can only be seen from the top, but it is there. A toothbrush type steel brush will remove the grime. Early girls(my bugeye 4.22), later 3.9, real late 3.7. Moving on, the five speeds are getting hard to find, find one cheap, buy it for the future. Sincro first, 19 percent over for 5th. It really is a nice addition to the car. Good luck and let us know how it goes.
OP
saabmp3
Jedi Hopeful
Offline
[ QUOTE ]
If you want to know what the ratio is, it is stamped on the outer case of the diff. Looking at the diff from the drive shaft, there is a bolt at the 12 oclock and 10 oclock position. By the 10 oclock bolt there is a curved metal outcropping that has the ratio stamped on it(it will actually be the gear vrs gear).
[/ QUOTE ]
Yeah, I forgot to look for a tag, stupid mistake. But.... If the gear is this high, I doubt it's factory? That means that the tag, even if it is there, is very unreliable.
Victoria British has a 3.5:1 and a 3.9:1, both for roughly 300 bucks. This is basically the limit that I would place spending on a single part to solve a single problem this summer.
Once I finally get a rock solid identification (from a British car shop in T-town) on the gear, is it worth anything to somebody else?
Ben
If you want to know what the ratio is, it is stamped on the outer case of the diff. Looking at the diff from the drive shaft, there is a bolt at the 12 oclock and 10 oclock position. By the 10 oclock bolt there is a curved metal outcropping that has the ratio stamped on it(it will actually be the gear vrs gear).
[/ QUOTE ]
Yeah, I forgot to look for a tag, stupid mistake. But.... If the gear is this high, I doubt it's factory? That means that the tag, even if it is there, is very unreliable.
Victoria British has a 3.5:1 and a 3.9:1, both for roughly 300 bucks. This is basically the limit that I would place spending on a single part to solve a single problem this summer.
Once I finally get a rock solid identification (from a British car shop in T-town) on the gear, is it worth anything to somebody else?
Ben
OP
saabmp3
Jedi Hopeful
Offline
Afternoon all,
I spent a couple hours today with the Healey, pulling the rear differential. While I was there I did some more inspecting/removing. The one thing that I continually learn is to put as little faith as possible in the previous owners, ESPECIALLY in regards to electrical items. I basically can divide up my findigs into "news", "good news" and "bad news".
News:
The differential is officially a 4.22. I guess this means I have a difficult time counting, but let's overlook that for now. I verified 4.22 by couting the pinion and ring gears. Basically that settles this condrum.
The Ujoints are trashed, as I expected. I pulled the drive shaft and I'm going to order new U joints from either victoria or moss tomorrow.
The transmission has unhooked electrical wires on it. Going back to the previous owners comment, I'm confused as heck. It also appears wider than I expected. I have a bunch of pictures that I'm planning on comparing to the manuals.
Good News:
The inside of the differential is very clean. No metal shavings, no chips on the gears. I'm trying to be positive about it.
Bad News:
I have wires hanging from my tranmission? What the heck is going on there, I don't know. The speedometer is cable driven, right? I'll post one or two of the pictures tonight.
My fuel pump was replaced at one point with an electrical unit, which is now secured with plastic pull ties. I wasn't very pleased when I saw this, but making some sort of bracket shouldn't be too difficult.
I guess that's about all I found out today. I'm off to investigate this transmission. Anybody have a 3.5 or 3.7 to trade for a 4.22?
Ben
I spent a couple hours today with the Healey, pulling the rear differential. While I was there I did some more inspecting/removing. The one thing that I continually learn is to put as little faith as possible in the previous owners, ESPECIALLY in regards to electrical items. I basically can divide up my findigs into "news", "good news" and "bad news".
News:
The differential is officially a 4.22. I guess this means I have a difficult time counting, but let's overlook that for now. I verified 4.22 by couting the pinion and ring gears. Basically that settles this condrum.
The Ujoints are trashed, as I expected. I pulled the drive shaft and I'm going to order new U joints from either victoria or moss tomorrow.
The transmission has unhooked electrical wires on it. Going back to the previous owners comment, I'm confused as heck. It also appears wider than I expected. I have a bunch of pictures that I'm planning on comparing to the manuals.
Good News:
The inside of the differential is very clean. No metal shavings, no chips on the gears. I'm trying to be positive about it.
Bad News:
I have wires hanging from my tranmission? What the heck is going on there, I don't know. The speedometer is cable driven, right? I'll post one or two of the pictures tonight.
My fuel pump was replaced at one point with an electrical unit, which is now secured with plastic pull ties. I wasn't very pleased when I saw this, but making some sort of bracket shouldn't be too difficult.
I guess that's about all I found out today. I'm off to investigate this transmission. Anybody have a 3.5 or 3.7 to trade for a 4.22?
Ben
OP
saabmp3
Jedi Hopeful
Offline
[ QUOTE ]
When in a quandry, check the wireing diagram for your ride. It does have answers.
[/ QUOTE ]
Ah Jack, we both think alike. The Healey is a Sprite Mark IV, so the closest wiring diagram I can find is for a MG midget Mk III. They mention a seatbelt warning buzzer which is in that general location. However, the car didn't come standard with seatbelts (the last owner literally tied seat belts into the car, stupid...).
The other plausible answer is a reverse switch. That's actually the most likely answer. However, as the rear end is out of the car, I have no idea if the reverse lights are working now or not!
I'm putting up three good pictures of tranny and unconnected cable.
#1
#2
#3
Ben
When in a quandry, check the wireing diagram for your ride. It does have answers.
[/ QUOTE ]
Ah Jack, we both think alike. The Healey is a Sprite Mark IV, so the closest wiring diagram I can find is for a MG midget Mk III. They mention a seatbelt warning buzzer which is in that general location. However, the car didn't come standard with seatbelts (the last owner literally tied seat belts into the car, stupid...).
The other plausible answer is a reverse switch. That's actually the most likely answer. However, as the rear end is out of the car, I have no idea if the reverse lights are working now or not!
I'm putting up three good pictures of tranny and unconnected cable.
#1
#2
#3
Ben
jlaird
Great Pumpkin
Offline
Has to be back up lights if you got em. Looks like a switch of some kind there.
Look in your moss catalog as well, maybe you can see from that what is tied in.
And remember this is conjector on my part. I have no experience with your model.
Do like your nice dry clutch cylinder. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Look in your moss catalog as well, maybe you can see from that what is tied in.
And remember this is conjector on my part. I have no experience with your model.
Do like your nice dry clutch cylinder. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif