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TR2/3/3A Help....Time for the body to come off [TR3]

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Tr3aguy

Tr3aguy

Jedi Knight
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OK....so I need to do a few more things to get the body braced.

The question I have is what all needs to be disconnected so the body will lift off and clear the motor etc?
The panels are off and the wiring is gone but the motor is in place. The linkage is still connected and the carbs are still on...

If you have pics of how you did it...please pm me with them.

thanks
 
JP

What year is your car. Makes a difference about the steering column. Early cars had the one piece steering column and the whole column needs to come out before lifting off the tub. Later cars you can just break it apart in the middle. Carbs and exhaust need to come off engine before lifting as well. I have used tw0 2x6s long ways with the tub ( under bulk and under rear deck) to lift the tub by myself. Four buddies work better.

Marv
 
I found that the only thing that I forgot to detach was the fuel line at the rear of the car. On mine,(haven't checked if it is factory) the fuel line was fastened with a little clip to the underside of the trunk pan before the line routes upwards and into the tank.

Cheers,
M. Pied Lourd
 
JP,

I didn't have any welding skills nor a welder when I started to take the body of the 3A so I did the same thing as when I did my TR6 restoration. I bought some rail from Home Depot and used the door hinge and door catch positions to fasten.

P1040467.jpg

P1040466.jpg

P1040472.jpg

I used a shop crane and some rope to get my body off. I used a couple of holes that were in the tops of the rear wheel wells (from a roll bar) and the some J hooks through the hinge positions on the bulkhead to hook up to.

P1050071.jpg


P1050072.jpg


Built a bunk so I could get the chassis back under the body
P1050095.jpg


Roll the chassis out when you need to work on the body or vice versa

P1050086.jpg


Good Luck and look forward to some photos.

Cheers,
M. Pied Lourd
 
Tr3aguy said:
It is a 1958.....and I am pretty sure it is a one piece steering unit...do you mean pulling the steering or the whole unit?
Click to expand...

If you have the one-piece column, the whole steering unit and column needs to be removed since they are attached to each other.
 
JP:

Your going to have to remove the whole steering column. Unbolt it down at the gear box, remove steering wheel etc. A shop manual comes in real handy when you start disassembling everything. Make sure everything on the fire wall is disconnected from the engine. I removed the doors, fenders, trunk lid, everything out of the interior to lighten up the body. After removing the 16-18 bolts that held the body to the frame three of us lifted the body off and put it on two custom made sawhorses made out of 4"X4" posts with 2"x4" legs placed under approximately each end of the rocker panels. I had also braced the door openings with strap iron pieces bolted to the body. You can make the sawhorses any height you want. I had mine high enough to work under the body without having to crawl around. I had to weld in new floors, did all my undercoating and had no issues with door alignment when I put everything back together. I made sure the sawhorses were the same height. This is a cheap method for supporting the body and I still use the sawhorses for other projects.
 
Thanks to everyone for kicking in with some great advise....I will have to figure out the steering part....I picked up some metal to do the bracing...I am terrible at welding but my buddy said he would help me out. I am going to concentrate on bracing on the interior so the bars are not in the doorway. I think that will work best because I can leave it in place and still check the doors gaps when I start cutting out metal.

I have some of the metal cut just need to drill some holes...take some pictures and reference measurements....then pop it loose....
 
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