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SkinnedKnuckles
Jedi Trainee
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I never heard that before... Perhaps they are concerned (and rightly so) about changing the MC and going to silicone without a good system cleanout.
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TR6 Help needed with TR6 Spongy brakes [sometimes]
- Thread starter Largo_Larry
- Start date
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Larry
In regards to the right M/C, if I recall correctly, the differences are bore size and the reservoir shape to deal with the angle induced by the vacuum power assist.
Fluids wise, in past articles and other reading, at least at one time some brake parts were manufactured or re-manufactured and the Silicone fluid would cause the seals to deteriorate. Since nothing stays the same for very long, a call to who ever supplies the part will be the best course. If you wish to use the silicone then make sure whoever supplies the part will warranty it that way. I personally don't think it worth the hassle. A little protection when doing maintenance and monitoring for leaks will minimize the chance of paint damage, it is suppose to resist water adsorption. However that may make the water puddle at the low points and cause pitting. That's one reason I am switching over to re-sleeved brake and clutch parts. I believe they will resist such pitting better leading to longer life.
In regards to the right M/C, if I recall correctly, the differences are bore size and the reservoir shape to deal with the angle induced by the vacuum power assist.
Fluids wise, in past articles and other reading, at least at one time some brake parts were manufactured or re-manufactured and the Silicone fluid would cause the seals to deteriorate. Since nothing stays the same for very long, a call to who ever supplies the part will be the best course. If you wish to use the silicone then make sure whoever supplies the part will warranty it that way. I personally don't think it worth the hassle. A little protection when doing maintenance and monitoring for leaks will minimize the chance of paint damage, it is suppose to resist water adsorption. However that may make the water puddle at the low points and cause pitting. That's one reason I am switching over to re-sleeved brake and clutch parts. I believe they will resist such pitting better leading to longer life.
OP
Largo_Larry
Freshman Member
Offline
Thanks again for all you advice. I think I have enough info now to move forward with a repair.
Larry
Larry
My thoughts here lean toward loose front wheel bearings. Any turning of the wheels knock back the brake pads, so the pedal has to be pressed deeper for the pads to make contact with the rotors.
If this pedal drop occurs even when driving in a straight line, then too much taper in either the pads OR the rotors could be the cause for excessive pedal drop. My vote here is for loose bearings!
Dick
(beefeater)
If this pedal drop occurs even when driving in a straight line, then too much taper in either the pads OR the rotors could be the cause for excessive pedal drop. My vote here is for loose bearings!
Dick
(beefeater)
Offline
There is your problem. You have faith in crummy AM hoses that are 10 years old. Go to braided lines
you will be amazed,
MD
tr6nitjulius
Jedi Warrior
Offline
45 yrs of same on/off brake pedal symptoms with my '72 sometimes soft sometimes hard sometimes double pump to be sure variations when cold/hot at best brakes on order step on pedal will eventually stop. OEM b/c master servo vacuum all part of equation as with drums leaky wheel cylinders been through them all
During process of eliminating said issues 5/23 had OEM b/c master servo from each vendor. Each failed/leaked (never any Dot5 purple rain on drip pan) before I could get back on the road same mechanic since '96 same system since '85 (numerous R&R) using Dot5 without issues as underwent 2 resprays for striped paint on firewall from dot4 leak. Indicates build quality has changed
In pursuit of Safety/Handling/Performance eliminate many know variables we put up with. Now have modern brakes on 50+ year old British Iron. Adjustable pedal stays the same hot/cold bleed from system vs need to pump the pedals. R&R drum for disc/pads eliminating shoes/springs/wheel cylinders still use Dot5
During process of eliminating said issues 5/23 had OEM b/c master servo from each vendor. Each failed/leaked (never any Dot5 purple rain on drip pan) before I could get back on the road same mechanic since '96 same system since '85 (numerous R&R) using Dot5 without issues as underwent 2 resprays for striped paint on firewall from dot4 leak. Indicates build quality has changed
In pursuit of Safety/Handling/Performance eliminate many know variables we put up with. Now have modern brakes on 50+ year old British Iron. Adjustable pedal stays the same hot/cold bleed from system vs need to pump the pedals. R&R drum for disc/pads eliminating shoes/springs/wheel cylinders still use Dot5