Help !! Hood release has broken

[davtay]

Hood release cable on my TR6 has broken loose, can anyone tell me if there is some method of hood release that I can use. Surely this happens from time to time and Triumph must have thought about this possibility ? Any help is much appreciated. Regards.

 

[Guest]

I've heard of people getting the front of the car way up off the ground, either on tall jackstands or a lift. Then if you shine a light up inside the engine bay from just behind the passenger side front wheel you should be able to see the hood latch mechanism. If you have a long pole or something like a broom stick you can wedge it in between the latch arm and the receiver and lever it so that it will release. I've never done this myself but it's what I've heard, maybe someone else can elaborate further.

Good Luck!

 

[jimbar]

Broom handle from under the car has been said to work. But you'll have to lift the car to do it. You might try removing the front hinges on the bonnet, again you'll have to get at from under the front, have small hands and a small scoket wrench. Ten lift it high enough to shove a broom handle or something in there to un latch the lever. Good luck!

 

[Alan_Myers]

Hi,

Other suggestions are good.

Note: *wooden* broom handle is best, the latch is very close to a battery terminal and anything metal might cause a nasty short.

I've also heard of folks working from under the dash with a long screwdriver, through one of the various holes for wiring, etc.

Good luck!

Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif.
'62 TR4 CT17602L

Be

 

[tr6web]

I believe there's a couple of threads on this BBS if you do a search. Many TR6 owners go through the glove box to get at the release. Then we add another cable for insurance so it never happens again! Good luck!

 

[Mark_Gibson]

There was a factory bulletin on opening the bonnet after the cable breakage which involves removing the cubby (glove) box and fitting a screwdriver through the grommet through
which passes the main wire harness and engage the release lever on the latch directly.

Getting the glove box out is a bit of a pain though.

To prevent future occurances there are many things you can do from attaching some aircraft cable to the release lever and letting it dangle down between the engine and frame to what I did which was to take a spare release cable, shorten it and mount it in the right hand side footwell so
that I can now open the bonnet from either side.

This was taken from a British Tech Tips article. Hope it helps.....

 

[KVH]

https://www.geocities.com/michelotti_tr/

There is a detailed procedure in this Site's technical pages.

In essence, an "L-shaped" shaft about foot long is used. Remove the glovebox, and it is inserted in one of the grommet openings in the firewall so that one leg points straight up next to the latch lever. You then rotate the shaft so it pushes the latch lever to your left.

I checked out (eyeballed) the theory of it all, and it sure seemed sound to me, but I haven't tried it. Good luck.

 

[Geo Hahn]

Here are a couple of pics that may help you visualize the task (both are from a TR4 w/o a heater but your situation may be similar).

This pic shows the release you will be trying to move (yellow arrow) and a possible access hole for the long screwdriver/metal rod method:

Here is an approximate view of what you'll be looking for from underneath should you go with the broomstick approach:

Again, yellow arrow is the motion you want.

Both pics show the back-up cable I have... an easy addition. A more elegant solution is available here:

https://www.macysgarage.com/myweb6/Parts/other_tr4_4a_parts.htm#Emergency%20Bonnet%20Release%20Kit

 

[Brosky]

I like that "elegant" solution a lot. I just ordered one of the kits for my TR6.

Thanks for the tip!

Paul

 

[71tr]

The following article contains a good write-up on a replacement primary or secondary hood release mechanism.

https://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/emergency_hood_release.htm

 

[KVH]

I just noted that the Article I mentioned as appearing on the Michelotti Web site is no longer there, but is shown on the VTR Website which requires membership.

It's an Article by Nelson Riedel. Also, I mentioned twisting the L shaped bar to the left; it would actually be to the right. Finally, I'd tape up the bar with electrical tape, as the area is awfully close to the battery terminal and solenoid.

If the broom handle trick, or some other method, works, I'd like to know your success.

thx

 

[Geo Hahn]

I see that the VTR site has now blocked access via the 'Wayback Machine' but Nelson's good advice can still be found via Wayback to the Buckeye Triumph site:

https://web.archive.org/web/20021022123731/www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Bonnet/Bonnet.htm