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help-extracting [front] leaf spring pins

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Jedi Knight
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TIA.

Has anyone devised a way or found the proper tool for "pushing" removing the rear leaf spring forward pin/bolt. I have been soaking these with WD40 for days and tapping tapping tapping with no avail.

I have picked up a gear puller that may get these loose tonight as well as a C clamp and spacer as plan B.

These are just not budging. I have had some tell me to heat the heck out of it then quench with water.

uurrrrgh

Trying to get this project done so I can attend the California Autumn Classic on the 19-20th in San Juan Bautista.

Cheers
 
I gather the bolt spins in the spring but not in the bushing. The only suggestion I can make is to try "Kroil" in stead of "WD40". Heat the bolt as best possible, not red hot, and cool with water. "Kroil" is the best rust breaker I've found.

SB
 
<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Scott Brunkhurst:
<snip> The only suggestion I can make is to try "Kroil" in stead of "WD40". <snip> "Kroil" is the best rust breaker I've found.
SB<hr></blockquote>

"Busty" is better but N/A in CA. Next is PB Blaster. WD-40 is the WORST.

Also, after soaking ALWAYS try a tighten direction first.
thirsty.gif
Then more soaking, then undo.
thirsty.gif
And continue with "do", soak,
thirsty.gif
"un-do" soak until free. PITA, I know. I have only lost ONE battle in a VERY long time that way.

Good Luck!!

Ed
thirsty.gif
 
HA. Last resort. I cut the
devilgrin.gif
things off.

Another 10 hour marathon to remove 2 bolts.

Of course followed by the requsite 6 pack of dark ale.

thirsty.gif


Tonight I reassemble with new springs, shocks etc.

Will I make the CA Autumn classic? heheheheh

Cheers
 
I recently had the pleasure of replacing the rear springs on my BN2. The forward lynchpins were of course frozen and took considerable time to remove. A coupe of suggestions:
First, use your lead hammer (for your knockoffs) as the hammer for striking your lynchpin. I know you have limited swing, so the weight of the hammer is important.
Second, you will need 2 small punches, 1 about 1-1/2 inch long and the other about 3 inches long, so you can drive the bolt through once it is flushed the back.
Also try driving the tip of a large screwdriver between the head of the pin and the mounting--this may partially extract the pin and allow you to grasp the head with vice grips, etc. Wiggle and hit the pin with the lead hammer.
Worked for me!
 
I recently had the pleasure of replacing the rear springs on my BN2. The forward lynchpins were of course frozen and took considerable time to remove. A coupe of suggestions:
First, use your lead hammer (for your knockoffs) as the hammer for striking your lynchpin. I know you have limited swing, so the weight of the hammer is important.
Second, you will need 2 small punches, 1 about 1-1/2 inch long and the other about 3 inches long, so you can drive the bolt through once it is flushed the back.
Also try driving the tip of a large screwdriver between the head of the pin and the mounting--this may partially extract the pin and allow you to grasp the head with vice grips, etc. Wiggle and hit the pin with the lead hammer.
Worked for me!
 
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