Help! '78 Midget clutch & light switch

[Steve P.]

Spent a very frustrating day working on this beastie.

Previous owner installed a new MOSS clutch master cyl
a few years ago, and was never able to bleed the system.
I confirmed that today. Tried everything from using
a vaccuum pump to suck fluid down to the slave cyl,
to the traditional hose in bottle, pump, close valve,
etc which I've done many times. Neither worked. No leaks
anywhere, fluid is going through system, bubbles appear
to go away, but no clutch. I disassembled the master,
and the bore is spiffy with new seals correctly installed
(later version with nub on spring end of plunger).
Master doesn't seem to develop pressure. Suggestions?

Lots of electrical issues too, which I'm working through.
I have not been able to remove the (defective) headlight/
running light switch. The book says to remove the retaining
clip. How???!!! Can't see the darn thing even with the
tach removed. BTW, there are a number of errors in the
schematic. Always helpful!

TIA

I'll probably be a pest for a while until I get this
thing on the road....

Steve

 

[jlaird]

Pest, we have no pests here only friends with problems.


Clutches are a pain for sure.

Have you blead the MC without haveing it attached to the slave cyl? ie will fluid run through the pipe?

Assuming this is a Bugeye the ign/light switch has a wire with a small loop on each end kind of around the back of the switch and tucked into a slot on two sides, that is the clip mentioned. You should be able to spread it with your fingers, one on each end. Disconect the battery first or you may have a hand full of fire. Be very careful of that clip they are not available althouth there is a work around if badly needed.

 

[Morris]

The later model midgets are IMPOSSIBLE to bleed. The poor design of their clutch hydraulics has spawned many a thread here on the BCF.

The problem is that the run of the hose goes above the master cylinder reservoir so that air gets trapped in the hose that cannot be removed through conventional measures.

My personal way of dealing with this is to jack up the driver's side of the car as high as I can get it to go. I then remove the pedal box plate and use a crow bar to depress the MC plunger whilst opening and closing the MC fitting to allow air to escape. Obviously, put a thick rag beneath the fitting to protect your paint from brake fluid.

As for the retaining clip, it's a black plastic POS that looks like it is part of the switch as it completely surrounds the switch. With the tack out, you may be able to get a screw driver between the clip in the dash.

 

[Morris]

Ps. It's pretty easy to pop that switch apart and clean the contacts.

 

[jlaird]

Let me not be the first to say that Bugeye clutch side can be a real problem as well. I have a bubble I just can not seem to get rid of.

 

[sparkydave]

Having bled my 1500 clutch more times than I'd like to say, what I found seems to help with the bubble in the hose is to stomp hard and fast on the clutch pedal, releasing it quickly several times after bleeding it the conventional way. That seems to dislodge the air bubble and either burp it back up through the master or push it down to the slave. Bleed it once more, but that should go very quickly. No need to bench bleed the clutch master cylinder, doing it the two-person way works fine there. I've succeeded in using a vacuum bleeder, but it's a pain.

 

[RickB]

A bit funny about your light switch - I also have a 78 and I don't know if the switch I installed was done right but I couldn't hardly put my had behind the dash without it falling apart.

There is for sure the plastic retainer that Morris mentioned, it 'slides' out from around the back.

Definitely disconnect the battery - you're not dealing with a trigger for a relay here the full current for the headlights passes through that brown wire.

I ended up with an older Sprite light switch given to me by a friend & fellow member BCF (thanks BillM) :laugh:
The older switch is superior, it's just built better.

I had a heck of a time getting it installed though, what's the trick with the wire retainer? Jack? :wink:
I manhandled it until it was in there. Screwdriver & needle nose pliers.

 

[jlaird]

Not sure there is a trick. I just use my fingers. Have had mine out several times.

 

[RickB]

ah... sounds like muscle memory

 

[Steve P.]

A bit of progess on the issues I asked about.
First of all thanks for the clutch bleeding suggestions.
What I ended up doing is jack up the left side of
the car in an effort to raise the clutch MC above the
pipe. Bled the system with the hose in bottle technique.
Had wifee stomp on the pedal HARD and FAST when I
opened the bleed valve. This probably helped get
trapped bubbles of air out. Worked fine but....

Now that bad news.....the darn hose leaks! Stooooopid
design. Metal ends with seemingly press fit plastic pipe
in the middle. How long can that last? Mine leaks at
both ends. Tried teeny weeny hose clamps, but no joy.
Really hate to pay $30+ for a replacement POS, so I
may try to make my own. Out of copper or steel. Not
plastic!!!

Light switch. Good news here. The way to remove it
without breaking the retaing clip is to remove the
speedo, then find a right angle, hard tool to
press in the side of the retainer. There are two
areas on each side of the clip that need to be pushed
in. Once one side is loose, the other will come loose
with a bit of fiddling.

Now the best news of all. No need to remove it!
There are two holes in the back of the switch, which
are just above the sliding contact, which gets dirty
(crud gets in via the holes). Squirt some TV tuner
cleaner in the holes, and it will go right on to
the contacts. Walla...Lucas defeated at his own game.

Steve

 

[Morris]

Hey Steve,

It would be real easy to make a clutch line out of pipe, but due to engine/gear box vibration, it would soon break.

A lot of small town parts houses also make hydraulic houses. Said parts house may be able to make you a hose for a little less than $30. Haven't done it so I can't say for sure.

 

[bugimike]

The solution to the vibration problem can be found on Bugeyes which came stock with "hard" lines. To dampen the vibration effects make the pipe coil(about 4/5 coils will do!).

 

[zimmy]

htere are tons of info on bleeding the clutch here on the forum...do a search...zimmmmy

 

[jlaird]

Yea Zimmy and nothing has worked yet. LOL