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- Thread starter Gundy
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OP
Gundy
Luke Skywalker
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toysrrus said:
Oops! Typo. That is TK Motorsports.
https://tkmotorsports.net/
Tad is the owner. Located in Pickens.
OP
Gundy
Luke Skywalker
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Took ol Screamin' Mimi out for a spin this afternoon.
Man I love the Sprite.
Coming home some out of state guy was holding me back
on Hwy #8. Nice little curvy 9 mile stretch I drive to work daily.
This will not do. 50 feels pokey.
Upshifting to 3rd while turning 4k+ in 4th is a HOOT.
Waaaaaaa....I hope I didn't bust the poor guys ear drum as I passed.
I really like how it feels with the new panhard rod affixed.
Posted 35mph curves are now 60 mph plus with no sense of the rear trying to break loose. Flat and steady. Very neutral
feel.
Sucks it was still cold enough to warrant keeping the top up
but spring is coming soon enough. I can't wait!
I met an older guy when I parked it at a Gov't office
where I had business and as I walked up to his car he asked
"What was that in it's prior life?".
Must have been that lumpy load idle that gave it away.
We laughed. He knew it was a Bugeye and had once owned an MGA.
Man I love the Sprite.
Coming home some out of state guy was holding me back
on Hwy #8. Nice little curvy 9 mile stretch I drive to work daily.
This will not do. 50 feels pokey.
Upshifting to 3rd while turning 4k+ in 4th is a HOOT.
Waaaaaaa....I hope I didn't bust the poor guys ear drum as I passed.
I really like how it feels with the new panhard rod affixed.
Posted 35mph curves are now 60 mph plus with no sense of the rear trying to break loose. Flat and steady. Very neutral
feel.
Sucks it was still cold enough to warrant keeping the top up
but spring is coming soon enough. I can't wait!
I met an older guy when I parked it at a Gov't office
where I had business and as I walked up to his car he asked
"What was that in it's prior life?".
Must have been that lumpy load idle that gave it away.
We laughed. He knew it was a Bugeye and had once owned an MGA.
Trevor Jessie
Yoda
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I drove mine to the local Healey meeting last night (I was the only one that drove a Healey), and I hit the rev limiter a few times before I knew what had happened. The new air intake system has made a huge difference. Now I have to get it back to the dyno to be sure I'm not going too lean when the hammer drops. 
OP
Gundy
Luke Skywalker
Offline
Trevor Jessie said:I drove mine to the local Healey meeting last night (I was the only one that drove a Healey), and I hit the rev limiter a few times before I knew what had happened. The new air intake system has made a huge difference. Now I have to get it back to the dyno to be sure I'm not going too lean when the hammer drops.
I hear ya Trevor! It's just dang hard NOT to wind these little suckers up, eh?
I still suspect Hap's going to have to lean me out a bit.
The AAM needles in the HS4s are VERY rich but Lordy at WOT
it's more fun than a barrel of monkeys.
OP
Gundy
Luke Skywalker
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Thanks Blue Max. I was surfing around and found this interesting site.
I plugged in the AAM and the #6 as well as another needle.
Interesting comparisons.
https://www.mintylamb.co.uk/suneedle/
I plugged in the AAM and the #6 as well as another needle.
Interesting comparisons.
https://www.mintylamb.co.uk/suneedle/
Hap Waldrop
Yoda
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BlueMax said:
No, Alan, thats way too rich, my MGB only uses #5, my guess for the A series street driven engine w/ twin HS4s in solid needle would somewhere around a #3 or #4.
Alan, David, sorry I ain't using those silly code names
There's a new chassis dyno place like a mile or so up the road form the shop, a couple of blocks behind Duke Sandwich Co., I'll be going there next Tuesday after lunch with Tom Buto and his SCCA Midget race to dial in his carbs and timing. If you boys want to come grab a Duke sandwich and then sit in on the dyno session, you're more then welcome, it will give you a better idea what you need to do to your car to dial in the fuel mixture David. David the first thing we need to know is if you have solid or biased needles, and what number/letter they are, the numbered needles, like #5, #6 are solid needles, it doesn't really matter for street car, biased or solid, but we need to know what needle to have to make changes and have those needles on hand.
OP
Gundy
Luke Skywalker
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Hap Waldrop said:BlueMax said:
No, Alan, thats way too rich, my MGB only uses #5, my guess for the A series street driven engine w/ twin HS4s in solid needle would somewhere around a #3 or #4.
Alan, David, sorry I ain't using those silly code names
There's a new chassis dyno place like a mile or so up the road form the shop, a couple of blocks behind Duke Sandwich Co., I'll be going there next Tuesday after lunch with Tom Buto and his SCCA Midget race to dial in his carbs and timing. If you boys want to come grab a Duke sandwich and then sit in on the dyno session, you're more then welcome, it will give you a better idea what you need to do to your car to dial in the fuel mixture David. David the first thing we need to know is if you have solid or biased needles, and what number/letter they are, the numbered needles, like #5, #6 are solid needles, it doesn't really matter for street car, biased or solid, but we need to know what needle to have to make changes and have those needles on hand.
Solid or biased??? WTF does that mean? The needles are AAM for what it's worth. I was "told" they are older HS4s.
How about I just pull the darn things this weekend and
bring 'em with me to Tom's dyno run?
That way you can do the proper incantations and magic tricks.
Looks like my paint job is delayed so I will not need the carbs for a bit.
They need work in other areas as you know. All I know how to do is slap 'em on and hit the skinny pedal.
Running the above referenced chart thingie it does appear
the AAM is rich. It shows it as a 16 stage needle
as compared to the #s ones being 12 stages. Looks like the
4 might be a good starting place. But again, I repeat
WTF...it's all geek to me.
(Click on link then click on HS4s then enter needles)
Anyway, Tom's tech session and Dukes sounds perfect. I'm thinking baked ham pepper and onions w/ sweet tea.
NOTHING beats empirical observations.
We can discuss the plans for MY dyno run after your magic and the re-install.
Hap Waldrop
Yoda
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toysrrus said:
Russ, you're welcome to come.
Hap Waldrop
Yoda
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David, your needle number reflects the later biased needles, which are spring mounted, we can graph that needle on a chart and see what coms up leaner, and get those needles, we can also use a special bushing and convert them to solid needles as well, it baised needles don't give us the choices we want, I did that exact thing to Tom's race carbs yesterday right before you stopped by. For starters we just give them a good look over, and see where we're at.
David, being the great photo and flim-maker you are, you want to film Tom's dyno session, we could then put it on youtube for the masses.
David, being the great photo and flim-maker you are, you want to film Tom's dyno session, we could then put it on youtube for the masses.
Hap Waldrop
Yoda
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JPSmit said:
If the car is rich, you will probably know it, they normally are harder to cold start, and will pop and spit a bit as warmed up, and get crabby gas mileage. Also take plug readings, this should be done by going down the road at full throttle (any gear is fine), cutting the igniton and then look at the plugs, you're looking for light brownish color on the ceramic of the plug tip. If you go to the chassis dyno look for 12.0 - 12.5 air fuel ratio at wide open throttle in 4th gear.
I think people think of chassis dyno as somewhat a luxury item, but for around $100 you get a hour worth of test ands tune dyno time and can perfect your fuel mixture, in those terms , it really a bargain, in gas savings alone. I always tell people get the car as good as you can get it before going to the chassis dyno, it only for fine tuning, not for fixing bigger problems. Oh and don't expect the chassis dyno operator to be a expert on your car, take someone with you that know these cars or be ready to do the tuning yourself. When I go to the chasiss dyno I take carb needles and my timing light with me and any tools I'll need. Get air filters and stuff like that out of the way, so you can make quick carb changes. The more prepared you are going to the dyno, the more sucessful you will be.
While seeing P and torque are cool, it is notreally whay you are there, you are there to get your car tuned as well as possible, and one of thethings you will learn about your car at the dyno is it's true redline, at some point in he rpms the graph will peak, and then drop, say your car peak at 6000 rpms, then drop drasticly at 6200 rpm, you now know your true redline and at waht rpm point you are no longer making HP, this is very valuable info.
OP
Gundy
Luke Skywalker
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Hap Waldrop said:
Hap,
I took the liberty of contacting Joe Curto to get some needle ranges in a spring loaded bias type.
https://www.joecurto.com/
Super nice guy. I dropped your name and Joe says Hi.
He even gave me a 10% discount for ordering two sets.
I ordered a set of AAA and AAE.
The AAE looks darn near a fixed #4 and the AAA is a bit leaner than the AAM but richer than the AAE.
On paper anyway.
Mailing 'em out on Monday via USPS so they should be here next week. In plenty of time for our future dyno run.
See ya Tuesday at Dukes.