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heeding my better's advice

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toysrrus said:
Hi David,

You`ve seen that "VW" @ Tadds. "Mike" painted that one & He says My TR3 will be "Better" than that! I can`t imagine it being better cause that VW has an "Outstanding" paint job on her.

Your "Frog" is coming along nicely. If it were me (And Its Not); I`d have him strip the entire car down to bare & paint it the Orig. color of "Pea Green". Of course; That would mean changing the Interior, Underside etc etc. It never stops; Does it!!

Regards, Russ
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Dude, is your TR3 going to be the original color?
I thought it was red to start.
I'd paint it red not white. Originality ya know!
:devilgrin:
 
Good Point David!!

I would have gone "Red" but there are 1000s of "Red" LBCs out there & I`ve never seen one (Physically) in the "Pale Beige" that the TR3 will be. I guess Its whatever turns you on.

Regards, Russ
 
Man not only should you be primed but pumped as well.
 
Paint goes on tomorrow. Here is the underside of the bonnet.
Had to weld some itty bitty cracks in doors at pockets.
The paint match is spot on.
 

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Looking good.
 
Body got sprayed last night. Bonnet this morning.
Looks like Mimi will get home for the holiday weekend
and I can install the trim/wheels/blade and grill.
I'm juiced to go by the shop this morning!
 
She's beautiful! I can't process the pics here at my office
so I'll post some this evening.
Bonnet and doors getting painted this morning.
Tomorrow the final sanding with 3000 grit will be done.
Hoping for bringing her home Friday.
 
Woohoo!
 
Pics BEFORE sanding on body and the bonnet being prepared for paint.
I got a kick out of the paint/body guy constantly harping
about how "It's not done yet. Still needs sanding. It'll be
a lot more shiny when finished."
You could read a newspaper in the finish NOW.
 

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Looking good! Tunebug is jealous. :smile:
 
Looks good David. Now the fun of cleaning off all the overspray that gets into places you never knew existed. It's hard to paint an assembled car without getting paint on lots of stuff. It will look great once it's all detailed and reassembled.
 
Detailer's clay is the best for removing overspray from other hard surfaces.
 
Trevor Jessie said:
Detailer's clay is the best for removing overspray from other hard surfaces.
Click to expand...

True, but the items like the fuel tank, suspension parts, and other mechanicals will require some black paint or serious cleaning with some solvent. The good thing is that it all will look nice once done.
 
The over-spray was inevitable but a little black paint and the
clay bar ought to do the trick. Thanks for the tips!
 
Gundy said:
The over-spray was inevitable but a little black paint and the
clay bar ought to do the trick. Thanks for the tips!
Click to expand...

David these days with high production insurance job, big body shops , it's all by speed of the job, they have paint booth that bake the paint dry after a shoot and they are washing the car outside 45 minutes after it's shot, and they use as little paint as they possibly can by with. With that being said a good old school paint job is entirely different animal, alot more paint applied for one, light color sanding after the spray, a good cut and buff job to get rid of any runs, overspray or orange peel. Sounds like the TK guys are doing it right, I think you are good hands, and will have a job you will be very proud of. Looks good !

As for overspray under chassis, if thats soemthing you will be doing I recommend a acrylic enamel single stage in satin black for the springs, control arms and such. You can do this very nicely with natural hair brush using the same reducer the paint would be mixed with to keep the brush from clabbering up with paint, it will flow like it was sprayed on. If you want to do this at my shop rather than at home you are welcome to.
Take the tip on the type paint for sure avoid paints like rattle can or rustoleum, they don't hold up over time.
 
Thanks Hap. I made note of the type paint to use on the
over spray at the chassis.
 
Hi David,

"LOOKIN REALLY GOOD"!! What I used / use is POR15. Its expensive, ($50 pint), but goes on just like Hap mentions above & you can brush it on as well. It turns "Rock Hard" & looks like you shot Lacquer.

Will you have her @ The Scottish Games Sat?

Regards, Russ
 
Hi David,

Fred & I went to the Scottish Games Car Show today & missed You & Hap being there. What happened to you gents?

By the way; The "POR15" is approx. "$50.00 QT" not a "Pint". Hope that did`nt scare you off on potentially buying / using it.

Regards, Russ
 
toysrrus said:
Hi David,

Fred & I went to the Scottish Games Car Show today & missed You & Hap being there. What happened to you gents?

By the way; The "POR15" is approx. "$50.00 QT" not a "Pint". Hope that did`nt scare you off on potentially buying / using it.

Regards, Russ


I was too busy with with work/home chores.
As a Cruiser guy I have experience with POR15.
It's not the best for this application.
See ya soon pal.
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