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TR2/3/3A Heater

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struik54

struik54

Freshman Member
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The heater didn't give any heat so i built the heater out. Fan is oké and the hoses (in and out) were hot. When i got the heater out i saw that the hoses were connected. I have tested the uhhhhh (see photo) by flushing. The flushing was oké and the water looks fresh. There was only one problem ...... It was leeking a little bit in the middle. Can this getting repaired????? Are they difficult to buy????? Have looked at ebay, couldn't find one.
image.jpg
 
My radiator shop said they could not do anything to repair leaks in the circular core. Several vendors offer replacement cores, but be sure to be sitting down when you see the price! TRF part number is 700899/CORE. Moss UK even has an "uprated" model available (which I believe is built as a Land Rover unit and is larger than the original) under PN 700899X.

Originals do show up on eBay from time to time (few times per year); but almost always "untested", which I figure means the seller knows it leaks and just doesn't want to say so.

Since the heater was "optional" anyway, I just deleted it :smile:
 
struik54 said:
For that money i buy a warm coat, gloves, earmuffs. :welcoming:
Click to expand...
Leather works best IMO; seems like the wind gets through anything that is woven (like a ski parka).
 
That heater looks good from the outside and that can/could mean something because a lot of them are all stretched out from too much pressure with the bands off or perhaps the water inside freezes and pushes them apart. Clearly it all depends, but with your heater I would shakes what water I could out of it over the sink then flush it with soapy hot water and shake and fill and dump until the water was clean. Then I would bring it into someplace place warm place it upside down and let dry out good --like weeks. Then steel wool the area where it is leaking. Next get some good solder like 50% lead and 50% tin to solder. In USA you have to get 50/50 in the electrical department because of the led. When applying the solder do not get the heater too hot or you will melt other spots, so use an electrical soldering gun with low heat just enough to melt the solder and warm the heater do not over heat and when soldering make sure everything is very clean . Let it cool, and give it a try with water to see if it leaks with gravity if no leaks with gravity then get some long hoses and give it a test fit outside the car. If good, cool put it in the car.
 Holland looks like Washington State USA and you need a heater for the dampness.
 
Mine was fixed by a local guy who used some sort of hot melt glue for radiator repairs, Don't know what the product name is but it's been several years since he fixed it and not leaking.
 
If good heat and not originality is your concern you can do what I did and followed Bob Shaller's idea of converting to a Triumph Spitfire heater setup. Works great and fits nicely on the dash brackets. See the conversion and pic in his "More BS about TR's":encouragement:
 
Thanks for all info. I will try to fix it by myself because i can see were the leak exactly is. Its on the outside were the parts are melt together. Cleaning it with steel wool is a good advice just wondering if there is a way to clean the inside????
does anyone knows what kind of material the circular core is??? Is it aluminium? I want to fix it with a small flame.
how high is the pressure when the heater is built in the car?
the heater of a spit is no option because my tr is restored body-off and is 100% original
 
The pressure cap on your radiator is supposed to be 4 psi, so the pressure should not be much different at the heater.
Bob
 
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