-
Hey Guest!
British Car Forum has been supporting enthusiasts for over 25 years by providing a great place to share our love for British cars. You can support our efforts by upgrading your membership for less than the dues of most car clubs. There are some perks with a member upgrade!**Upgrade Now**
(PS: Upgraded members don't see this banner, nor will you see the Google ads that appear on the site.)
Hey - did you know if you click on the title of a thread it will take you to the first unread post since you last visited that thread?
but were afraid to ask: 
STOP!! Never post your email address in open forums. Bots can "harvest" your email! If you must share your email use a Private Message or use the 
smilie in place of the real @
Pretty Please - add it to our Events forum(s) and add to the calendar! >> 
TR4/4A Heater Removal
- Thread starter rentontr4
- Start date
Share this page
Offline
First of all, welcome. There will be others much more competent than I that will chip in here soon. I've only worked on a TR3, but the manual also told how to install. Since most operations tell how to remove and then state installation is the reverse, I started by taking loose all the pieces that I was instructed to remove in order to install. Take your time and with a little (or a lot) of patience it will come out. Good luck, and again welcome.
Geo Hahn
Yoda
Offline
...and a lot of digital pictures (both before and during).
Offline
I am pretty sure a TR4 as a heater like a TR250 or a TR4A. Assuming that is the case, tranny is out, I assume the dash support it out too, that is nice, you have a lot of room to work, I did mine a short time back with tranny and tunnel in place. Drain the water and remove the hoses on the right side, you might have a big towel handy as there will probably still be coolant in the hoses and the heater core. If you have any cables in the way that run underneath the heater you may have to take those out too. Disconnect the cable that moves the heater flap on the bottom of the heater, then there are I believe 4 bolts that hold the heater in, three that bolt in up top in a triangular pattern, and one that stabilizes it by attaching to the back of the firewall. Good luck!
Offline
I've done that, and what is stated above would be good advice. Here are some of my thoughts:
You're far into things if the heater is being pulled. I'd take advantage of having things apart and remove not just the dash support, but I'd actually go ahead and check all the wiring and other possible "mess" under the dash. If you see any rust, burnt wires or other such items, I'd remove all the gauges and then the dash as well.
I'd solder/fix/re-tape all wires as needed, clean all connections, replace bulbs where needed, and use a thread chaser or tool on any dirty or rusted captive nuts or other fittings.
This would be a great opportunity to replace any cracked dash pieces, the plinth or other problem areas.
With all that out of the way, dropping the heater out is a cinch, but be sure you drain the radiator and use that towel as recommended above. Might as well buy a new hose junction at the firewall. Those are frequently rusted and very weak. New heater hoses are important, and like Geo says, be sure to take pictures. Even those two hoses get tricky how they twist around each other.
Remember, you can't remove that top dash piece without removing the windshield and that is not so hard. We can help if you're interested in more advice.
Like glemon says, there are just a few bolts holding the heater up there, but there is a big rubber gasket at the dash, and you can order one or just make your own. Don't over tighten those bolts or you could strip the captive nuts. I think the rubber bushings might be ordered from Moss. Again, because of the wiring, and since you'll be disconnecting for the heater, it just makes me think you might opt to remove the whole dash and really do a number fixing things up. Sounds like overkill maybe, but I sanded rust spots and treated with RustMort, then spray painted, too.
Be careful not to break the plastic channel hose to the ducts, or the ducts, themselves.
Careful not to break the soldered bracket hanging down from the heater for the radio. That thing comes in handy. Good time to install a radio, too, if you care.
Sorry, got carried away. Your question was easier. thx
You're far into things if the heater is being pulled. I'd take advantage of having things apart and remove not just the dash support, but I'd actually go ahead and check all the wiring and other possible "mess" under the dash. If you see any rust, burnt wires or other such items, I'd remove all the gauges and then the dash as well.
I'd solder/fix/re-tape all wires as needed, clean all connections, replace bulbs where needed, and use a thread chaser or tool on any dirty or rusted captive nuts or other fittings.
This would be a great opportunity to replace any cracked dash pieces, the plinth or other problem areas.
With all that out of the way, dropping the heater out is a cinch, but be sure you drain the radiator and use that towel as recommended above. Might as well buy a new hose junction at the firewall. Those are frequently rusted and very weak. New heater hoses are important, and like Geo says, be sure to take pictures. Even those two hoses get tricky how they twist around each other.
Remember, you can't remove that top dash piece without removing the windshield and that is not so hard. We can help if you're interested in more advice.
Like glemon says, there are just a few bolts holding the heater up there, but there is a big rubber gasket at the dash, and you can order one or just make your own. Don't over tighten those bolts or you could strip the captive nuts. I think the rubber bushings might be ordered from Moss. Again, because of the wiring, and since you'll be disconnecting for the heater, it just makes me think you might opt to remove the whole dash and really do a number fixing things up. Sounds like overkill maybe, but I sanded rust spots and treated with RustMort, then spray painted, too.
Be careful not to break the plastic channel hose to the ducts, or the ducts, themselves.
Careful not to break the soldered bracket hanging down from the heater for the radio. That thing comes in handy. Good time to install a radio, too, if you care.
Sorry, got carried away. Your question was easier. thx