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Heater Operation

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NapoleonV

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I know this is a dumb question but how do you operate the heater? There is a lever between the vent pulls. How do u turn it on/off. Where does the heat come from, the vent openings under the dash? I tried several ways but the heat eminating from the tranny tunnel hole (in back of the radio panel) lets in heat and I don't know if the heater is working or not. Is there a blower too? Thanks.

Napoleon
67 BJ8
 
No such thing as a dumb question!

Yes, there is a blower motor. Pulling the small bakelite knob that resides on the lever between the vent pulls controls the blower power. Pull out for power to the blower and push in to turn it off. There are spring-loaded "flaps" located on the bottom of each side of the metal box-like ducting below the dash. To get airflow one pulls down on the flap (I think it is down, but it is self-explanatory if you look at it - I don't have it here with me to look at!). The air intake vents are operated by pulling out/pushing in. There should not be hot air (or any air flow) from the transmission tunnel itself. Perhaps the fluid level opening "plug" is missing? (Check the Moss Motors catalogue parts illustration to see the rubber plug.) One can turn off hot water flow to the heater by turning the brass valve on the passenger side of the engine block where the rubber hose goes from the block to the heater assembly through the firewall. Be careful as one can easily break off the brass lever on that valve! (Guess how I know that?) Hope this helps! sTever
 
The lever between the pulls move side to side. If I move it left, is that suppose to increase or decrease the blower? Thanks.
 
Move it left for minimum temperature of the air passing through the heater into the car interior and demister ducts. Move it right for maximum temperature. Pull the same knob for the blower to come on. You can regulate the air coming from the heater with the right side knob. Pulling it out to shut off the air. The left side knob is for fresh air, independent of the heater. You pull out the left side knob for more air flow. I know .. sort of confusing ... but you get used to it.

Cheers,
John
 
Yes, the Drivers Handbook (the small glove box sized book with 50 or 60 pages) has lots of good info like the heater controls and light maintenance items. The Workshop Manual is a must if you are doing any mechanical work. The Mechanical Service Parts List is a life saver if you are doing a restoration and need to figure out how it all goes back together!

Cheers,
John
 
It seems to me that the right know directs the the air from floor to screen (windshield) but I may be wrong. I usually have the top down so I cannot tell any difference. Don't feel bad 'cause many of us are still learning too.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Move it left for minimum temperature of the air passing through the heater into the car interior and demister ducts. Move it right for maximum temperature. Pull the same knob for the blower to come on. You can regulate the air coming from the heater with the right side knob. Pulling it out to shut off the air. The left side knob is for fresh air, independent of the heater. You pull out the left side knob for more air flow. I know .. sort of confusing ... but you get used to it.

Cheers,
John

[/ QUOTE ]

The knob turns on the fan when pulled out (Heater boost)and regulates the water control valve in the heater when moved from left to right. The temperature range of the cockpit in summer months can generally be described as "very hot" when the valve is closed (knob to the left), "extremely hot" when the valve is partially open (knob in the middle) and "unbearably hot" when the valve is fully open (knob to the right). For winter months reverse the order and substitute "cold" for "hot".
 
"The temperature range of the cockpit in summer months can generally be described as "very hot" when the valve is closed"

One more question. Why is it still hot when the valve is closed???
 
[ QUOTE ]
"The temperature range of the cockpit in summer months can generally be described as "very hot" when the valve is closed"

One more question. Why is it still hot when the valve is closed???

[/ QUOTE ]

Napoleon--

That was meant to be a Healey joke--perhaps I should have waited until Friday as that is the recommended day for humorous posts, at least on the autox list.

That having been said, during warm months it is best to shut the petcock (valve) on the block which leads to the heater since if the heater control valve is not shutting all the way some warm water will find its way thru the heater and invariably heat will radiate off into the car's already-warm interior, regardless of whether the booster fan is on and the air flow open. Of course, on four-cylinder cars we don't have valves to regulate flow at the heater, but I digress....
 
I relate the temperature settings akin to the oven settings - the only down side is its only 'cooler' when the car is in the garage, having not been run for a couple of days! I'm thinking of putting 12V refigerators in the foot wells /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif
 
Sorry, still kind of slow witted when it comes to the familiar thigs with this car. So, the heat in the footwells is pretty normal? I looked under the car and saw what looked like an asbestos fiber barrier to block the heat from the front pipes, correct? Maybe if I install some heat shield materials under the carpet it will help a bit. Thanks.
 
NapoleanV,

There is heat shield material in the front and side of the footwell and below it (in between the muffler and floor). Also strips of it on the firewall. It originally had abestos in the panels but the new stuff is made without.

In a dark garage with a shop light in the engine compartment you can look for air leaks from the passenger side. You can also use the blower function on a shop vac to feel for air leaks (helps to have an assistant for both tests). Check that the trans tunnel is sealed well all around and the junction of the emergency brake/tunnel (mine was blowing hot air like a furnace from that area right on to the passenger). There is all sorts of insulation that can be put under the carpet and trans tunnel but I would check for major air leaks first.
Cheers,
John
 
[ QUOTE ]
There is all sorts of insulation that can be put under the carpet and trans tunnel but I would check for major air leaks first.
John

[/ QUOTE ]

John--

Not being concerned with originality I have used dynamat extensively--it is thin, effective and comes ready to be stuck in place so there's no need for glue, etc.

The icon with the overdrive switch, esp. the BN1 escutcheon plate, is very cool.
 
Great ideas. Thanks a bunch. I looked under the carpet and there is nothing there to insulate the heat. I will seal up the leaks if any, insulate, and I guess have to reglue the carpet back. Thanks!
 
I've been woundering how to close the space around the bonnet(hood)lever? What have you guys done? Or is it high enough that it doesn't matter?
 
Napoleon...there are only two tempatures in a BJ8 Healey...hot and hotter...welcome to your own private sauna... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yesnod.gif

I have the heat-shielding down in my car...it only helps marginally...these cars are great in the winter...as any cold evening is a made comfortable with your "automatic" heater... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/lol.gif

Summer months...I recommend short trips...because it gets hot...and then hotter...your transmission is a heat source that never stops.. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cryin.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]
"The temperature range of the cockpit in summer months can generally be described as "very hot" when the valve is closed"

One more question. Why is it still hot when the valve is closed???

[/ QUOTE ]

Because it's a Healey.
 
'cos you've got a 3 megawatt throbbing monster chained up just the other side of the scuttle from you, and even with what insulation there is it isn't enough!
 
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