Heater motor or switch problem

[Michael Oritt]

The fan motor in my heater worked nicely all summer but naturally chose to crap out once cooler weather arrived a few days ago and I'd like some advice from those 100 drivers who have previously removed/remounted their heaters.

I have verified that power is getting to the heater lead from the fusebox I installed in the engine compartment, and the green wire disappears into and through the firewall, apparently intact Without disassembling the heater I cannot access the rheostat switch to trace whether it or the motor is the issue and before I pop off the three spring clips that seem to hold the heater faceplate to the rear plate I would like to know that doing so will allow me to get to the heater's innards.

Also I would appreciate learning whether reassembly is the reverse of disassembly as those clips, esp. the one at the 12:00 o'clock position, do not look like they will be easy to get back into place with the heater mounted to the firewall, which leads me to my last question: How is the heater unit fixed to and removed from the car should this become necessary? Aside from one screw going through an ell-bracket at the top of the faceplate I see no other fasteners projecting through the firewall.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Michael Oritt]

About an hour ago I popped the spring clips off of the heater face-plate which gave me access to the back of the rheostat switch. I first verified that there was power to the switch and then jumped across the two posts with a screwdriver. The heater motor came on full blast, telling me that the problem was in the switch, which had felt a bit odd when I initially encountered the problem a few days ago as the "detent-like feel" when turning the fan on was missing. Though I assumed I had identified the problem as being in the switch I nevertheless turned the control knob just to see how it felt and--wonder of wonders--the fan motor immediately came on. What's more it responded perfectly to the rheostat, going from full blast to low just as it always had.


I am 100% certain that I had the ignition switch on and the heater power lead connected with an intact fuse and I can only say that this is a typical Healey deal, and now that the car has my attention I am sure that should I simply close the heater up the switch will probably act up at some point in the future. I'm going to investigate whether I can source a replacement switch, either Lucas or not. I'll also take the opportunity to repaint the front plate in black crackle and I am going to close off the top opening that supplies heated air to the two vents in back of the windshield, which seems like a waste of hot air.

Thanks all for your patience and advise and I hope this gives some of you who have experienced similar situations a laugh.