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heater core to valve on block not aligned

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msoylemez

msoylemez

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I am trying to finish up the cooling circuit on the BE, and need to connect the heater core (heater box) to the valve on the block. Unfortunately, the two connection points are not well aligned (they are not in the correct 90 degree/perpendicular alignment). To get it aligned, should I just continue to tighten down the valve on the block? It's pretty tight now, and I am worried the threads are like brake line threads (not to be overtightened). I've posted a pic.
 

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That seals with a washer and I've done three things, get a thicker washer, flip the base, file the top of the base down a bit. Don't over tighten since that is the fourth thing that I have done and do not recommend.
 
Think I have two washers on mine. Recommended solution is add a washer or two to get it correct. That is a gasket washer.
 
If it is not imperative to use the correct hose, you can use a longer piece of heater hose and give it a loop instead of a bend to go from core to valve. A trial twist of the hose will tell how much you can coil it before it collapses or kinks. Less strain on the core fitting due to engine vibration as well!
 
All of the above will work fine, I have used additional washers. Do not over tighten you may break the brass spout.

Patrick
 
If you do break it there is one on ebay...But have you guys checked it out lately? It always amazes me!! One guy is buying tail-light lenses for a BE for $22.50 + shipping(they are $8 or $9 ea. at VB!). There is another guy with a BE bonnet for $900. You owe it to yourselves to check it out if you want a laugh - usable? only if you are really desperate!!
 
I think some folks by from like Moss and resell on ebay. I really do.
 
I did the "loop thing" with a longer section of heater hose.

I used the same section of hose to bypass the heater core during the summer - slightly cooler foot-well!

When I had the shorter hose there seemed to be a constant tension on the valve body and tended to create a small leak where the valve body and threaded base come together... Doesn’t leak now!

cd
 
Yep, I agree cd. The factory hose leaves no "wiggle room" but it's really all academic for me now. In S. Fl. I have no need for a heater except for a rare 1 or 2 nights a year! I just usethe valve as a blanking plate 'cause it looks good there!
 
great input--I used another gasket like washer and now it's pretty much at 90 degrees.

bugimike, how did you cap the other end, or is there no need to?

thanks to all.
 
I have heard that it's important not to just cap the end if you're going to bypass the heater. The Tunebug is missing its heater, and has a hose going from the valve around to the little tube on the other side. If I remember correctly, blocking this can lead to higher temps in that back cylinder.
 
Thanks for the info on that, I was not aware of that! There would be a need to cap the other end. I replaced the hose with one that did not have the little heater-hose extension. I will be fixing that since I have had a high heat (not over heat though) issue on long drives (E. to W. coast of Fl.) and in light of the above info. That is probably why! Thanks /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif
 
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