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Heater Core Motor
- Thread starter rlandrum
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Brosky
Great Pumpkin
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Don't take any chances if you have it apart. Have the core tested and recored if necessary and replace the hoses from the core out to the engine. You'll be glad that you did.
Now back to your question. I personally can't help you with that one. I only know about TR6 heaters. You can buy motors from TRF. I got one there for my 6. I would hope that they have them for your car as well.
Good luck!
Now back to your question. I personally can't help you with that one. I only know about TR6 heaters. You can buy motors from TRF. I got one there for my 6. I would hope that they have them for your car as well.
Good luck!
PeterK
Yoda
Offline
The core is only rated for 4psi, maybe 7 is OK, but maybe not. So if you take it to the radiator shop to get cleaned out, tell them FOUR PSI or your core will be swiss cheese when you get it back. btw new core is around $500 and recore is not avail.
Motor is on ebay once in a while. Not cheap.
You make me laugh - got a TR3 for just $500 lucky you. But then every day, you post about another part you're fixing. BTDT and have a t-shirt to prove it! It's fun reading about your unfolding restore. Have fun doing it, and work on getting it on the road first and foremost.
Motor is on ebay once in a while. Not cheap.
You make me laugh - got a TR3 for just $500 lucky you. But then every day, you post about another part you're fixing. BTDT and have a t-shirt to prove it! It's fun reading about your unfolding restore. Have fun doing it, and work on getting it on the road first and foremost.
OP
rlandrum
Jedi Trainee
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Just FYI, according to the Moss catalog, a new core doesn't come with end plate or motor.
I haven't been able to find a motor on TRF. And I don't see it listed in the Moss catalog.
Anyone had any luck getting one rewound? If not, I may give it a go... what's the worst that could happen...
All the old hoses are junk. They looked to be originals since they were ribbed. They were stiff and brittle. Anything that's getting any kind of attention generally gets reassembled with new parts.
I haven't been able to find a motor on TRF. And I don't see it listed in the Moss catalog.
Anyone had any luck getting one rewound? If not, I may give it a go... what's the worst that could happen...
All the old hoses are junk. They looked to be originals since they were ribbed. They were stiff and brittle. Anything that's getting any kind of attention generally gets reassembled with new parts.
PeterK
Yoda
Offline
I often see heaters complete or parts on ebay, keep looking. I picked up a used core in good condition for around $50.
But a core is just that, no plates, as you say.
Also, the heater was an option on the TR3 when it was sold so many don't even have one fitted.
Keep digging, you'll find what you need. But don't expect the TR3 heater to actually keep you warm, once you do.
But a core is just that, no plates, as you say.
Also, the heater was an option on the TR3 when it was sold so many don't even have one fitted.
Keep digging, you'll find what you need. But don't expect the TR3 heater to actually keep you warm, once you do.
OP
rlandrum
Jedi Trainee
Offline
Another heater related question... I managed to get the brass valve moving again, but no matter what I do, it never fully closes. I suspect that there was an O-ring inside. Should there be an o-ring? If so, what size? I think I can squeese one in there with a pair of tweezers.
Seems like a waste to give up on an otherwise good condition heater core. I think rewinding it is gonna work. The insides were pretty much caked with bits of wire insulation, so it's no wonder it didn't turn.
Seems like a waste to give up on an otherwise good condition heater core. I think rewinding it is gonna work. The insides were pretty much caked with bits of wire insulation, so it's no wonder it didn't turn.
TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
Offline
I'm sure I've got some spare TR3 heater motors around, but I'll have to hunt for them. No reason you couldn't have one rewound, it's just a rather pedestrian little series-wound DC motor ... but it's a rather labor intensive process and I expect the cost would be prohibitive. I've rewound the armature myself; first one worked great but I never managed to finish the second one ... it's been laying on the back of my bench for over 10 years now /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif Hardest part was finding the proper insulation to put between the windings and the armature.
No O-ring in the stock heater valve, it was just a bare brass cone against a bare brass seat. Not intended to seal without a drop, but shouldn't flow enough to notice through a heater. But there is supposed to be packing for the valve stem, which you can replace with "valve stem packing" from any good plumbing supply (even HD had it last time I looked but that was some years ago). I'd suggest the good stuff with the PTFE coating, as it's more forgiving of worn stems IMO.
Others have said it works OK for them, but I've never had much success using ordinary heater hose on a TR3. They always kink where they turn 90 degrees to go onto the heater core, and block most of the flow. Hopefully the ribbed ones from TRF will hold up better ... I solved the problem by adding copper elbows to make the turn.
No O-ring in the stock heater valve, it was just a bare brass cone against a bare brass seat. Not intended to seal without a drop, but shouldn't flow enough to notice through a heater. But there is supposed to be packing for the valve stem, which you can replace with "valve stem packing" from any good plumbing supply (even HD had it last time I looked but that was some years ago). I'd suggest the good stuff with the PTFE coating, as it's more forgiving of worn stems IMO.
Others have said it works OK for them, but I've never had much success using ordinary heater hose on a TR3. They always kink where they turn 90 degrees to go onto the heater core, and block most of the flow. Hopefully the ribbed ones from TRF will hold up better ... I solved the problem by adding copper elbows to make the turn.
TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
Offline
I'm sure I've got some spare TR3 heater motors around, but I'll have to hunt for them. No reason you couldn't have one rewound, it's just a rather pedestrian little series-wound DC motor ... but it's a rather labor intensive process and I expect the cost would be prohibitive. I've rewound the armature myself; first one worked great but I never managed to finish the second one ... it's been laying on the back of my bench for over 10 years now /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif Hardest part was finding the proper insulation to put between the windings and the armature.
No O-ring in the stock heater valve, it was just a bare brass cone against a bare brass seat. Not intended to seal without a drop, but shouldn't flow enough to notice through a heater. But there is supposed to be packing for the valve stem, which you can replace with "valve stem packing" from any good plumbing supply (even HD had it last time I looked but that was some years ago). I'd suggest the good stuff with the PTFE coating, as it's more forgiving of worn stems IMO.
Others have said it works OK for them, but I've never had much success using ordinary heater hose on a TR3. They always kink where they turn 90 degrees to go onto the heater core, and block most of the flow. Hopefully the ribbed ones from TRF will hold up better ... I solved the problem by adding copper elbows to make the turn.
No O-ring in the stock heater valve, it was just a bare brass cone against a bare brass seat. Not intended to seal without a drop, but shouldn't flow enough to notice through a heater. But there is supposed to be packing for the valve stem, which you can replace with "valve stem packing" from any good plumbing supply (even HD had it last time I looked but that was some years ago). I'd suggest the good stuff with the PTFE coating, as it's more forgiving of worn stems IMO.
Others have said it works OK for them, but I've never had much success using ordinary heater hose on a TR3. They always kink where they turn 90 degrees to go onto the heater core, and block most of the flow. Hopefully the ribbed ones from TRF will hold up better ... I solved the problem by adding copper elbows to make the turn.
Don Elliott
Obi Wan
Offline
The same motor was used in the heater in the Morris Minor and also the Land Rover.