• Hi Guest!
    If you appreciate British Car Forum and our 25 years of supporting British car enthusiasts with technical and anicdotal information, collected from our thousands of great members, please support us with a low-cost subscription. You can become a supporting member for less than the dues of most car clubs.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

Heater Box Extracted!

Share this page

S

Sportsdoc

Jedi Trainee
Offline
Got my heater box removed finally. Used a #3 posidrive and put an adjustable wrench on the screwdriver's shaft where it's machined for that. Broke those rusted screws free.

I got a new battery/heater plate from Moss. What is the best way to remove the old one? And I assume I will need to weld in the new one.
 
The best way is to use a spot weld cutter, and go after each of the welds. Sometimes I think the builders were payed by the weld. There can be a lot of them!
Jeff
 
...and they are hard to find under surface rust.
 
I did this recently in the disassembly phase of my '62 sprite project. The best method I've found is to take a 4 1/2" grinder with a metal cutting disk (a thin one) and cut out the tray as close to the flange as possible. Then use a thicker (1/4") disk in the grinder to thin down the flange. Then insert a screwdriver between the remainder of the tray flange and the body panel and work a little slack between the two. (I actually ended up using an old wood chisel rather than a screwdriver because the sharper edge makes it easier to split the gap) When you get a little separation, cut through the flange with the thin disk being careful not to damage the panel below. Then using the screwdriver (chisel) raise one end of the flange; keep do this until you reach a spot weld. Grind off the raised flange and the spot weld until you're flush with the body panel. Repeat, repeat, repeat.

Sounds long and difficult but it actually goes pretty quickly once you get the hang of it. I did try using an air hammer and panel chisel, but it did too much damage to the panel underneath that I wanted to keep; the metal around the spot weld wants to tear out when using the air chisel.

There are some photos on my project site at:

https://www.raysmg.com/rays_mg_midget_62_sprite_bodywork.htm

Look down in the July 2007 gallery

Ray
 
I'll chime in here... I'm doing similar things on my VW (see signature).

I've gone through half a dozen spot weld cutters, and I find them to be pretty useless.

I would agree with Ray, as above. Grinding and cutting down until you are left with just a thin strip, and then prying / cutting / grinding is the easiest method, and does the least damage to the surface underneath.
 
I'm going with Ray's method on thin or very rust metal, but thicker stuff I think I'd go with some quality spot weld cutters or a drill bit and the Drill Dr.
 
tosoutherncars said:
I've gone through half a dozen spot weld cutters, and I find them to be pretty useless.
Click to expand...

The quality ones hold up very well. It's important that you use them straight, and center punch or pilot drill the weld to prevent wandering.
The cheapies are garbage, I agree, but I've done welds all day with only one cutter.
Jeff
 
I vote for the drilling out of the welds and simply prying out the remains. Good luck.
 
I just did this on mine. I'm not so much into special tools, but those from Blair look real good. I used a 1/4 drill and went through. A long flat body-plate chisel removed the top panel from the heater channel. When welding it back in, I just welded through the holes from the bottom.
Picture here
 
Thanks Donn. What do you plan on doing for those firewall holes from the battery, exactly like the ones I have?
 
Back
Top