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Heat Shields

Jack T

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If you're looking to replace just the insulation and not the metal, Hardiboard at your local home improvement store works well. It even looks the part.
 

BobHaskell

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Steve,
Doesn't help much, but Moss used to (this one: PN 372-106?). I think their supplier retired. Have you called British Car Specialists? On the web page showing the heat shield, it states the insulating material is available separately.
 

HealeyPassion

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A little late to the party, but for those interested British Car Specialist has a few complete replacement sets left. For those of you that want a bit of a winter project, I'll offer this. On a separate post you can see what I did with heat shielding above the muffler. I liked the muffler covering so much I decided to cover all the fiberboard heat shields with aluminum. I might be accused of getting carried away, it won't be the first or last time that happens.....

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dougie

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A little late to the party, but for those interested British Car Specialist has a few complete replacement sets left. For those of you that want a bit of a winter project, I'll offer this. On a separate post you can see what I did with heat shielding above the muffler. I liked the muffler covering so much I decided to cover all the fiberboard heat shields with aluminum. I might be accused of getting carried away, it won't be the first or last time that happens.....

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What type of header/exhaust system do you plan to use with the "stock" outrigger notch spacing. I had to expand mine to get the larger size pipes to clear.
 

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HealeyPassion

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What type of header/exhaust system do you plan to use with the "stock" outrigger notch spacing. I had to expand mine to get the larger size pipes to clear.
I'm using Kirk headers which have the #1 pipe rerouted so eliminate the slip connection. The frame outrigger has been enlarged and raised to give me the needed room for the connection to the muffler and to get the muffler 1/2" higher. The rear outrigger is also modified to let me reroute the exhaust pipes to exit behind the rear wheel. The exhaust system has mandrel bends and has been ceramic coated inside and out (muffler just on outside). Step-up in exhaust pipe is needed to clear Bilstein shock (Putzke kit).

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HealeyPassion

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Picture to clarify... rerouting of exhaust to clear Billstein shock with mandrill bends. Rear frame rail end was also modified to allow exhaust tips to be pulled up higher and closer to the body. Obviously, all this work was done before chassis was media blasted and painted.

Steve

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HealeyRick

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Have you no shame??!!.....just kiddin'
Not too late for you to remove those aluminum shields on your car and start engine-turning them yourself, Steve. :smile:. I have insulation underneath the panels on my car, which also sealed up some holes I didn't use on the firewall. I admit, the stainless panels were bought with the engine-turning already done on them. And since, I already have that Ford V8 in there, we've already established I have no shame.
 

HealeyPassion

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Not too late for you to remove those aluminum shields on your car and start engine-turning them yourself, Steve. :smile:. I have insulation underneath the panels on my car, which also sealed up some holes I didn't use on the firewall. I admit, the stainless panels were bought with the engine-turning already done on them. And since, I already have that Ford V8 in there, we've already established I have no shame.
Well, yes, Rick the V8 does put you in a different class than my "hot rodded" Healey stove bolt ... oh, wait I mean "evolved EFI 6 cyl." ... I think it's acceptable for a V8 to have an engine turned firewall. I'm not sure it's okay for mine??? But please note I have filled something like 20 holes in the firewall.... so, I'm not sure what group that puts me in??? The rules/ethics on this are quite confusing!!!:unsure::oops:
 
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