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General TR heat proofing floor boards

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TexasKnucklehead

Jedi Knight
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Is there any advantage to laying insulating mat on the floor boards of the TR3 without an adhesive? Do you all have stuff glued (or taped) to the floor and if so, how did you allow for the possibility of removing the tranny tunnel? "Fat Mat", "Dyna Mat", water-heater blanket... preferences?

I want to install some pad before I start wiring but I am welcoming suggestions for now.
 
I didn't glue mine. Wanted easy removal in case of sudden rain, etc. Discovered that Dynamat and several other materials are actually sound insulation, not heat insulation.

I went with simple foam carpet underlayment from Home Depot. Really makes a difference in the floor and firewall heat situation. Similar to this:

Cumulus_Foam_Carpet_Underlay.jpg


Tom
 
I used strategically placed squares of 2-faces trim tape on some ares and squares of velcro on others. The velcro allows you to pull the insulating mat up with no difficulty and no mess. Definitely would not use glue!
 
My PO used glue (and lots of it) and now I'm afraid to attempt to pull it up in fear of ruining the carpet. I have the insulating pad and will probably attempt it this winter. That way, if I do ruin the carpet I have time to replace before driving season hits again.
 
My PO also used glue, but it had dried out and I was able to remove the carpet with little damage to it. If you pull carefully, and use a plastic scaper to aid you, you might be able to get the carpet out to your satisfaction.
 
The most important thing to insulate is the tunnel, IMO, as it gets the hottest and is closer to your flesh (especially right leg). Insulating the floors still helped, but not nearly as much as doing the tunnel.

I use some (synthetic ?) felt stuff with fiberglass reinforced aluminum foil on one side. Originally saw it sold at a swap meet as car insulation, but it turns out that Home Depot sells the same stuff as water heater insulation (or at least did, that was some 15 years ago). HD was also about half the price of the swap meet.

Mine is likewise cut to shape and just laying there; except I added the carpet clips in the footwells and put both insulation and carpet into the clips. It's also cheap enough that I don't mind if it gets ruined; but so far I've just let it dry out (off the car) and it seems fine.
 
Lets just hope my efforts are as successful as yours were. The PO completed his restoration in 2005, sold it to a vintage car dealership and the car sat in a warehouse for nearly 5 years before I bought it so I'm finding some funky things as I go through it. It was supposed to be a frame off restoration, but I have serious doubts. I love the car but I'm finding a lot of old worn out parts that need replacing.....which is fine because it allows me to make the car mine and put in things I know will last.
 
At the shop we use the stuff from JCW that has the foil backing.I do not however follow the destructions,
I lay it foil side up,lightly gluing the fiber side down.The foil is a good barrier to the moisture that is
going to get onto the carpet some day.Then you can whisk out the damp carpert, dry it and wipe off the foil.
When you use this method be sure to attach the carpets to the floor with the included snaps, or it will move
all over.Careful hand fitting of the tunnel insulation is important.
MD(mad dog)
 
There has been much said about "Lizard skin". Very thin coating but very good heat resistance. Also very durable, and you can paint right over it. I am going to use this on the TR250. Just some other option to use. I did use the dyno mat on the TR3 and am happy with it. But it is almost permanet. I would not want to try to remove it.
 
After fitting, I glued the insulation to the back of the carpet per the suggestion from Skinner, except where it was a vertical (behind seats etc).

8235646271_4343828328_z.jpg
 
I used some heat shield from my favorite hardware store. It is foiled on both sides with some bubble-wrap like stuff in the middle. The transmission took several pieces and I used thin metal tape (like for A/C duct-work) to keep the pieces together. The right and left sides are single pieces that over lap the section from the tunnel, held in place by slits at the wire-harness loom hold-downs and I will bolt the seat rails on top of it. I have the original snaps at the top of the foot well screwed through the foil to hold the carpeting, and will cut the carpet that goes under the seat so I can remove it when it gets wet. I may need a snap or two to keep the carpeting placed properly. It will be a little painful to remove the foil, but if I have to, I can.

I'll let you know how it works when I get to finally drive this car.
View attachment 28622
 
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