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heat and sound control

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healeyboz

healeyboz

Jedi Knight
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A question for you summer driving BE boys.

I am wondering about the amount of heat and sound that comes from the area under the dash were the heater vents are? I have an option to put some more second skin behind the panels that go there. How much heat/noise is produced from this area? There are three sides and I would put the material only in areas that are covered by the new red panels. I was thinking about maybe just covering the one side closest to the shifter.


Thoughts?
 
Barry,

Smmer time I just shut off the valve. It's warm in there just about any time particularly with a black interior.
 
What about heat from the motor and tranny? Is there a noticable heat that comes from that area? Would I be able to eliminate some of it with putting the heat shield under the existing panels?
 
This is unconventional... and someone will probably come along to tell me what a bad idea it is /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif ... but I wrapped my exhaust pipe with left over header wrap and it has made a huge difference in cabin temps. Won't do much for sound, though.
 
That area, inside foot well is right near the engine and down pipe, if the stuff is thin you canuse it although the fibreboard panels do a decent job of keeping it out by themselves. Most of the heat comes from underneath the drivers seat and it can get HOT on a long trip. Now on any Spridget I do I use the foil sided padding as underlayment for the carpeting, it just about eliminates the heat and cuts down on the sound quite a bit. Comes in a roll, cuts with a scissors and is available in better parts stores.
Mike
 
I am using second skin. It is like dyno mat. I placed it just about everywhere carpet is going to be. So I'm sure the heat issue from the exhaust should be helped.
 
Can anyone tell me how this second skin compares to the dynamat product? It looks more reasonable as far as cost goes. Anyone use some other brand or item? I've read some suggest looking at duct insulation or something as an alternative.

By the way how any square feet would one need to insulate the entire cockpit, etc?
 
Thor,

I used it in my MGB and it's been wonderful! It really cut down on the heat.

Barry,

How do you like it so far? I thought it was super easy to install. The only bad part was the thick aluminum backing did slice and dice my fingers!
 

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John,
I LOVE the stuff. It is real easy to cut, work with, and install. You bet, cutting hands up a little is definitely part of the installation.

I was unsure of buying 40 yards and glad that I did. I have a few spots to do and will send Jack what I have left. It will all be used!
 
John and Barry,

Are you using the Damplifier or heat wave product and did you use the "Pro" series in your installation?

Thanks
 
You might want to think about trying Lizardskin, it's a spray-on product. I have used it on my Lotus replica, but haven't gotten it running yet. It goes on easily and is supposed to cut down noise and heat. Time will tell......
 
+1 on the lizard skin. Have experienced the results in a street rod. It makes a huge difference, and is not as bulky as the dynamat type products. It the sound dampening coat will be used on my entire interior of my bugeye, and the heat coating will be used on the tunnel, footwells, firewall.
 
I use the silver stuff you get at Lowe's in my GT's....have always been afraid to use anything in an open car because it could hold water in the event it rains while the top is down.
 
I agree Tony, that is why Lizard skin is a good choice. It is essentially a thick paint with special fibers.
 
On my 59, I added a cement board plate under the drivers floor with an air space. Just 4 bolts with a nut as a spacer than a 1/4' sheet of ceramic tile backer board (asbestos like stuff)
On the 67 i am working on, while it was upside down in the garage, I used a sheet of stainless steel with the same spacers. I'll see how this works on the trip to Missouri.
 
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