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Healey Will Not Start (a.k.a. "Failure to proceed") Part 137

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Thanks again for the advice. I went ahead and checked the battery once more and took it up to the place where I got it. They tested the battery, because I thought I was going crazy and they confirmed the battery is in fact DEAD. They have to charge it over the weekend and they will tell me on Monday if the cell are fried as well.

When I get it back, I will check wires/switch again.

Also, How do I by pass the kill switch? Do I just remove the cable from the switch or do I unplug it from the coil too?

Thanks :smile:

-------------------
Mark D.
1965 AH 3000 MKIII
2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser
 
The ground cable goes to the kill switch (positive on positive ground system). The purpose of the kill switch is to disconnect the ground from the chassis cutting all circuits. It also grounds the coil making it inoperative. You can just remove the main cable and connect it to a convenient bolt that connects to the chassis. The coil wire is only needed to kill the coil to make theft harder. You can leave the coil wire intact on the kill switch and nothing will happen with the kill switch on. I suppose you can still kill (ground) the coil by switching off.
 
Also, How do I by pass the kill switch?

just remove the ground cable coming from the battery terminal from the cut off switch and join it to the remaining cut off switch terminal containing the braided cable to the chassis, also disconnect the small B/W wire from the switch and tape is end up to prevent accidental grounding.---Fwiw--Keoke
 
Hi Donovan,

I assume you are using a standard multi-meter with a + and - probe for testing. To perform a good load-induced diagnostic, I recommend you consider running a few “Voltage Drop” tests. To facilitate the running of these tests, I have created a few extensions to my meter’s probes that have made these tests more convenient.

The following is a list of those extensions I have made. Additional extensions are easily created:

(2) 2’ long with Alligator Clips for +/-
(2) 10’-15’ (sufficient to extend from under bonnet to boot) with Alligator Clips +/-
(2) 2’ long with spade connectors

The original probe wires are clipped in half with a mail spade connector attached to the - and a female spade connected to the + meter-side line. Opposite spades are connected to the probe side. All additional extensions will have male or female spades for attachment at the meter-side lines and alligator clips at the far side. The last to extensions will have spades at both end so that the original probe-ends can be attached. With these line extensions, any number of variations can be created to conveniently monitor any circuit. Also, with the installation of a power receptacle under my dash (that allows me to charge my phone), I installed spade connectors on an old power plug to connect to my meter. This allows me to use the meter to monitor voltage on drives.

Following the return of your good battery, I would suggest you run a number of “voltage drop” test to check the circuits and connectors to your starter. A voltage drop test checks electrical flow through a circuit when the circuit is under load. These are tests that will indicate if a circuit is healthy or faulty under load. I would recommend you Google Voltage Drop test procedures to get a much more complete explanation.

Good luck,
Ray (64BJ8P1)
 
Thanks for the advice Ray, I have all of the above materials. I will try it this week. Also, I'm going to go ahead and order a new wiring harness. I see two version for my year and make AH 3000. Which one do I get?

<26704

or

26705 >

from Victoria British

I don't understand which one to get?

Thanks
 
:savewave:

26704 = Pre Phase TWO cars

or

26705 = Phase TWO cars: Twin runing lights and / or Modified chassis rails at the differential.
 
Keoke said:
:savewave:

26704 = Pre Phase TWO cars

or

26705 = Phase TWO cars: Twin runing lights and Modified chassis rails at the differential.
Click to expand...

Caution when ordering parts for a 1965. Not all phase two cars
have twin running lights. Some have single running lights. The
changeover of phase 2 BJ8s to twin running lights came in spring 1965.
All phase two cars had the modified rear chassis rails and suspension from the phase 1 cars.

Ed
 
i think your nuts to put in a new harness it is a major pain in the ass and you still don't know what the prob is ,you should bring it to a shop that does electrical it could be a simple as a bad ground or a cut wire ,if it started before it should start again there has to be a good shop in your area there are alot of club members that could help you out good luck
 
Hi Donovan,

First, a Phase 1 has a single BEEHIVE light in front and back with reflectors at the rear. Additionally, the Phase 1 also has a glove box between the seats. The Phase 1 is pre 26704.

How bad is your original harness? In the situations I have encountered, most electrical problems are the result of bad connectors and not the harness. Pulling and replacing the harness is not a simple job and can result in as many connection problems to be sorted out as you have today. I would suggest, if your harness is not burned and is in reasonable shape, you go through and clean and solder all connections/connectors and use dielectric grease (or petroleum jelly) in all connectors to exclude moisture. I would also do the voltage drop test on your critical circuits (starter, charging, lights, etc) to find any bad wiring or connections.

One last point, on a new or existing harness, install a number of inline fuses (I like inline over block fuse installations as they can be easily installed and hidden but you will need to create a reference directory as a memory jogger) to protect key circuits.

Good luck,
Ray (64BJ8P1)
 
Hi Donovan
I agree with rjc197, to change the wiring harness when you haven't yet located the problem is extreme. You could end up after a lot of work and dollars spent still with the same problem. Any auto electrician wothy of the name should be able to find the cause of your problem in 30 minutes which will cost you a lot less than a new harness. After all, if you now know the battery is charged, a length of wire connected directly from your battery to the solenoid will pin down exactly where the problem lies. If it's the large brown wire, unless it's obviously burnt through somewhere there are only about 4 connectors on it to check.
Do you have a wiring diagram, if not google BJ8 wiring diagram, you'll find it very quickly and it's easy to follow even, the wiring colours are the correct colour in the diagram. If you can't find it pm me and I'll email you a copy, email is oui3@orange.fr

Ian
 
rjc157 said:
i think your nuts to put in a new harness it is a major pain in the ass and you still don't know what the prob is
:iagree:


,you should bring it to a shop that does electrical it could be a simple as a bad ground or a cut wire ,if it started before it should start again there has to be a good shop in your area there are alot of club members that could help you out good luck
Click to expand...
 
Thank you for the help fellas,

I charged the battery then tested the wires at the new ignition. Every result gave me 12Vs+

When I tested the brown wire going into the starter solenoid it read at 8.50Vs.

Also, I noticed that the fuses are completed blown.

Do I just clean the brown wire then replace the fuse and try again?

Thanks

Still looking for a shop in the area to help. :smile:
 
Just to clarify. The power comes to the starter solenoid from the battery via the large cable connected to the battery. The brown wire carries the current to the voltage regulator. What are your two contact points for checking the brown wire?
 
Alright, I tried it for the forth time, this time I clean and removed the plastic covering from the brown wire to the starter solenoid. I tested the brown wire off the starter solenoid and got 12.50V. Now, do I test the brown wire with it on the starter solenoid? What's next?

Thanks
 
Have you replaced the fuses? What are your present conditions? Do the lights work, does pressing the solenoid button (inside the engine compartment) cause the starter to spin/turnover? What works and what doesn't?
 
I'm just placing the red part of my voltmeter to the brown wire then grounding it to the chassis. The power is getting to the solenoid and the starter switch. What's next? :smile:

Thanks
 
Does the starter turn over with the button on the back of the solenoid (inside the engine compartment) or not? If it doesn't then the problem is with the starter or the solenoid, not the electrical circuit. If it does, then the problem is with the starter switch or the circuit from the switch to the solenoid.
 
Donovan2001 said:
Thank you for the help fellas,

I charged the battery then tested the wires at the new ignition. Every result gave me 12Vs+

When I tested the brown wire going into the starter solenoid it read at 8.50Vs.

--Disconnect the brown wire from the solenoid and measure the voltage to ground. If 12 volts or more the solenoid may be shorted or stuck in the on position,

Also, I noticed that the fuses are completed blown.

There are no fuses in the starter circuit and if they are completely blown shorts on their output side are eliminated work that problem separately OK

Do I just clean the brown wire then replace the fuse and try again?---NO

Thanks

Still looking for a shop in the area to help. :smile:
Click to expand...


-------------------------------------Keoke
 
No I havent replaced the fuses, they look terrible and so does the fuse box. The lights dont' work and I might have installed the wrong solenoid because there is no button on the back. The ignition light works, the windshield motor and thats it.
 
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