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Healey starting problem

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bradal

Jedi Hopeful
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My '59 BT-7 refuses to do anything when the starter button is pushed. I have previously replaced the primary cable from battery to the solenoid and I have most recently tried a new battery. Is there any easy way to test whether the problem is the solenoid or the starter itself? AL Bradley
 
Have you checked the battery cutoff switch. This part goes bad very commonly.
 
Hi Al,
You can bridge the actual heavy solenoid terminals themselves if you are careful. A heavy short screwdriver works well. If it cranks this would eliminate the starter, battery, cables, ground switch, & connections. The only thing left then, is the solenoid itself or the solenoid actuating circuits. As was said, the battery disconnect switch is a frequent source of problems. A jumper cable from battery to frame would eliminate this possibility.
D
 
Thanks to you both for the timely responses. Dave, I have seen people bridge the solenoid as you describe before, but I am a bit afraid of arc-welding things to my car! It sounds like that is the way to go, though, so I'll try it tomorrow. Thanks again to you and Bighly. AL
 
I've had this happen a couuple times, particulary if I hadnt used the car. It sounds stupid, but I just cleaned up and tightened the connections on the solenoid and thats all it was.
cheers
 
Thats great Derek, I was a bit concerned that you might weld yourself to the car!---Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
 
I've never used plier or a screwdriver to jumper over a solenoid for the exact reason you mention about welding and arcs. When I've had to do this I've used one "side" of a set of jumper cables. That way, I can clip onto one terminal (usually the terminal directly on the starter) and then just tap the other end of the cable to the hot solenoid terminal. You're much less likely to hurt anything that way.
 
DoughL,Me thinks you very smart fellow.---Keoke /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]
I've never used plier or a screwdriver to jumper over a solenoid for the exact reason you mention about welding and arcs. When I've had to do this I've used one "side" of a set of jumper cables.

[/ QUOTE ]

I can't tell you how many times I done this...this was almost a 2nd key...works real well on vintage cars...yet at the time...when I was doing it...they were not called vintage...yet... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/lol.gif
 
Not if the main solenoid contacts are defective as they sometimes are. From the above comments, I guess I should qualify my previous screwdriver suggestion by saying, if you are clumsy or have poor eyesight or slow reflexes, don't try it. The object is to make a firm, quick contact. Not fumble around timidly.
D
 
Tahoe, are you talking about the pushbutton on the round bodied Lucas solenoids? I've had some problems with these lately. The replacement ones on the market must be made in 3rd-world countries as their quaility is VERY poor. I've had two fail in two years. I've opened the failed ones up to discover badly burned contacts and or a contact that's fallen off the solenoid slug itself. On more than one occasion I've had the solenoid contacts weld shut when I used the pushbutton... leaving the car cranking and cranking until I could pull the ground terminal off the battery. Why this has not happened during a key-start I don't know, but I'm beginning to not like the round body solenoids with pushbuttons.
 
Yes TH, /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/iagree.gif that is a safer method of testing this circuit. There is a button on the back side of the solenoid that will let you manualy close the circuit.You may need a light bulb or a volt meter to separate a faulty solenoid from a defective starter or open starter control circuit.But you won't risk welding youself to the car.---Keoke /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
I've never used plier or a screwdriver to jumper over a solenoid for the exact reason you mention about welding and arcs. When I've had to do this I've used one "side" of a set of jumper cables.

[/ QUOTE ]

I can't tell you how many times I done this...this was almost a 2nd key...works real well on vintage cars...yet at the time...when I was doing it...they were not called vintage...yet... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/lol.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

Yep Henri ,but nobody told you actually what that key fit!!---Keoke /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/lol.gif
 
I've never had a problem with it (last time I said something like that my battery shut off went out the next day). I work it hard when I'm adjusting the valves. If it does lock up, you can shut off the battery switch until you fix it.
 
TH,Silence is golden so they say! OH! if the solenoid sticks just whack it with the "handle" on the screw driver---Keoke /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
 
protect you eyes,and remember to remove your 'rolex'and any other metal jewelry you might have on when you begin rummaging around 12 V d.c.always!!
 
AW Antyhony 12 VDC ain't gonna kill you but it might burn you to deaf.---Keoke /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
 
I think Anthony's worried about getting the watch, ring, etc. stuck as a shunt in a high-current circuit (like the starter) and welded in place. That could burn you. A buddy of mine from high-school went off to join the army where he worked on big trucks with 24 volt circuits. His co-worker dropped a wrench across the battery (+) terminal to chassis ground. It melted in half before they could even think of knocking it off the terminal.
 
My wife's watch melted and part of it burned her wrist when we were installing the rear hatch panel on a BN6 last year. The amazing thing is, all she said was "ouch, this hurts, can you take my watch off?
Me, I would have been screaming bloody murder, like a little child. She is fine now, only a minor scar. Women definitely have a higher tolerance of pain than men. Remember, always take your jewelry off when working on cars.
BTW, the watch kept ticking and never skipped a beat. Wasn't a Timex!
 
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