Healey Distributor Removal/Replacement

[RDKeysor]

Having just replaced the plugs on my '60 BN7, I managed to swap a wire (well, actually two wires) during the replacement. I quickly found a picture of the distributor wire positions in one of my Healey book, and while it wasn't very helpful, I did detect that at least one of the wires leading to the distributor was not as found on my car. Ultimately I found AUSMHLY's excellent photo (10/31/12) of the correct distributor/wire/plug orientation. Mine is completely different, which tells me that my distributor is 180 degrees out. Is it worthwhile correcting this fault? I'm loathe to pull the distributor and could use some detailed instructions on how to do this correctly. I understand I may need to verify the timing once this is done. Thanks, and double thanks for the definitive photo mentioned earlier.

 

[Keoke]

Using the factory manual:

Get Section B:

Read and Follow Fig B4 & B5

If dizzy will not seat maybe driving dog has been replaced 180 Degrees out. ?

Option:
If car is running good label wires and mark dizzy location on the locking plate And let it alone.

 

[John Turney]

...

Option:
If car is running good label wires and mark dizzy location on the locking plate And let it alone.

I agree.

 

[steveg]

I would argue for rotating the drive dog on the distributor. At TDC on the #1 cylinder, the rotor should point in the general direction of the #1 cylinder - the 2-o'clock position. If the rotor is in the 8 or 7-o'clock position it is 180 degrees out. If you have a punch of the correct size it's pretty easy to drift the pin out and rotate the dog to the correct position. From the pix below you can see the pin was inserted from one direction and pushed out from the opposite direction.
This is the side that was hammered in:

This is the side to push the pin out:

My backup distributor has a roll pin which can go in or out from either side:

 

[steveg]

Pulling the distributor is straightforward: undo the bolts on either side of the base plate and lift out. On reinstall, you'll jiggle the rotor from side to side until the off-center slot in the dog seats. Then push the distributor home and insert the bolts on either side. It helps to have an easy way to disconnect the primary wire. You can undo the cap and tie out of the way to the carbs with a piece of string.

 

[RDKeysor]

Thanks for all of the help. Given that I had just completed installation of Putzke's Bilstein shock system and wanting to drive the car, I took the easy route and swapped crosses plug wires to restore the ignition system for now. I did make a sketch of the functional wire locations for my 180-degree out distributor installation, putting a copies in the car manual, shop manual and my onboard maintenance record. I will probably correct this sometime in the future, and I will make use of Keoke's suggestion to use the shop manual's perfectly good discussion of removing and replacing the distributor. My one tip on the Putzke installation instructions is to completely remove each the front shocks to reach the valves that must be removed and to make it easier refill them afterward. Simply unbolting the four bolts at the shock base as directed doesn't cut it. I found it easier and likely necessary to detach the upper A-arm or control arm connection to get the valves out.

 

[ozhealey]

Steve, RDKeysor,

I could well be wrong here, however I am not sure there is a need to remove and "rotate" the drive dog on the distributor. Indeed I am not sure this will do anything to help. To my knowledge the BN7 distributor drive is the same as the BJ7 (my car). The dog on the end of the distributor which also drives the mechanical tachometer has the slot in the centre (not offset) and therefore rotating 180 degrees wont do anything. What I do think Steve was getting at is the drive beneath the distributor which mates with the gear on the camshaft has an offset slot and this could be 180 degrees out. This dog then drive the intermediate shaft in between the distributor and the cam drive. I think simply removing and rotating this cam driven dog 180 degrees should achieve the desired result of distributor alignment.

Cheers
Tony

 

[steveg]

Steve, RDKeysor,

I could well be wrong here, however I am not sure there is a need to remove and "rotate" the drive dog on the distributor. Indeed I am not sure this will do anything to help. To my knowledge the BN7 distributor drive is the same as the BJ7 (my car). The dog on the end of the distributor which also drives the mechanical tachometer has the slot in the centre (not offset) and therefore rotating 180 degrees wont do anything. What I do think Steve was getting at is the drive beneath the distributor which mates with the gear on the camshaft has an offset slot and this could be 180 degrees out. This dog then drive the intermediate shaft in between the distributor and the cam drive. I think simply removing and rotating this cam driven dog 180 degrees should achieve the desired result of distributor alignment.

Cheers
Tony

Tony - you're correct. I just went through this yesterday. Rather than driving out the pin on the upper dog, it's easier to undo the lower drive where it attaches to the block, then rotate the dog 180 degrees there - as that one's symmetrical. You can do this with the upper portion attached. You want the distributor rotor to be pointing in the general direction of cylinder #1.

The lower slot inside the block should be at the "twenty-to-two" position with the engine at TDC on #1 cylinder.