Headlights

[alfred2]

I put the relay kit from vicky b on my GT+ and got a noticeable improvement in brightness and some improvement in vision. Mostly it allowed me to run a larger power wire to the lights. I always felt that it is the optics that make the difference more than the amount of light. Six headlights will not shine any farther than two unless there is an attempt to focus the beam. I always go for the best beam that I can afford. The lucas system on LBC's is not real good at providing heavy current. Good luck

 

[eschneider]

With all this discussion about relays.... there is a valid - although unpopular - argument that if the voltage drops through the connectors, grounds, and switches are minimized, then the performance of a relay modification will not greatly exceed the stock system.

Arguments for relays are certainly valid - installing relays reduces the load on dash switches, and the voltage drop through the system will be slightly reduced..... But some people would rather maintain the simplicity of the original system, than install additional wiring and components.

Back to the original question - AFAIK, there are no advantages to using the original incandescent bulbs. Some will argue against them on the topic of originality, but halogen (and other modern) bulbs offer significantly increased performance without increasing the electrical load on the harness. (some bulbs use less power than the original incandescents)

 

[Scott_Hower]

No worries about overheating the wires (especially with the ones you listed); but getting more voltage to the bulbs will produce more light.

Getting more <span style="font-style: italic">current</span> to the bulbs will produce more light.

I have Cibie "e-codes" with 90/100 watt bulbs from Daniel. Running dual relays, one for the low beam, one for the high. They are also fused. The ones I have also include a low-watt (unfused) "sidelight" inside the housings.

Light output is outstanding, and the cutoff is razor sharp.

edit: photo is an MGB. Looks like it belongs there if you ask me. Relays were $6ea and are Hella from British Wiring. I think I paid about $30 for the relays, sockets, fuses, wiring and misc bits. Might have taken an hour or two to build and route the harness.

 

[DrEntropy]

I've Cibie housings in ALL the rolling stock here. H4's for bulbs (55/60's).

With the standard sealed-beam style, you're "out-driving" the lights at forty MPH... they're JUNK IMO. :smirk:

No wiring mods and it's been decades with no issue. Now that the cars (and more to the point, the switchgear) are forty-plus years on, I can see the prudence in putting relay circuitry in 'em. Made up a separate harness for a set of "Square-8's" we hung from the MGB bumper and used a relay for those.

Had a '69 GTV back-when with Cibie headlamps (90/100) and 5" spotlights on the inside. GREAT lighting. The Elan S-3 has a set of Oscars in the mouth, one fluted "foglight" lens and one pencil beam. Cibie headlamps with the 90/100's. Again, no relays and no issues. When everything is lit up on high in <span style="font-style: italic">that</span> thing it'll burn th' paint off'n th' car ahead of ya!

 

[tomshobby]

I put the relay kit from vicky b on my GT+ and got a noticeable improvement in brightness and some improvement in vision. Mostly it allowed me to run a larger power wire to the lights. I always felt that it is the optics that make the difference more than the amount of light. Six headlights will not shine any farther than two unless there is an attempt to focus the beam. I always go for the best beam that I can afford. The lucas system on LBC's is not real good at providing heavy current. Good luck

I also used the VB kit. Other than the yellow wire sleeve I love it. I did install it a little different than others I have seen. I connected the hot lead to the pos starter post and brought the ground for the lights back and fastened them to the inner fender wall.

 

[tdskip]

So jumping in late here but the Sylvania lights listed will be noticeably brighter in my experience and I don't believe it is necessary for those to have a relay. Apologies if I missed something obvious here (probably have).

 

[TR3driver]

The light pattern is at least as important as the amount of light, perhaps more so. Just for chuckles, here is my attempt at comparing an original tungsten bulb to an H4 replacement, on low beam. The camera doesn't capture the full difference, but it gives some idea. These are 5-3/4 bulbs on my Stag; the difference was even more distinct with the 7" bulbs on the TR3. And no relay (yet).

 

[RJS]

I rarely drive at night so have the tri-pod reproduction lights. They have a great classic look but, will admit driving over 40mph and you may as well be blind.

I was interested to read about the Vicky Brit relays since they cost ~$20 and require no splicing (so I understand). Yet, I have seen other relay kits at $90 and even $135. Just curious what the difference could be(?)

If I ever decide to upgrade my lighting, I will definitely go with units from Daniel Stern and use relays.

Bob
PS: I know what a difference proper lighting can make. My other car is a '98 BMW E36 M3. I replaced the OEM lights with the Euro Hella units and retro-fitted a proper set of real HID's. Wow!

 

[JPSmit]

FWIW I paid about $5 each per relay and they are completely reversible, no splicing at all. Took a wee bit to get my head around it all (but that's because my brain isn't set up too well for this kind of stuff) and then created a mini harness - used bullet connectors and am good to go.

 

[sabot]

which light is which Randall ?
thanks tom

 

[DrEntropy]

left is halogen, right is tungsten. That is the pattern when on "low beam".

 

[TR3driver]

which light is which Randall ?
thanks tom

On the left is a "convex" H4 from Daniel Stern, very similar to the photo Gavin posted above (but in 5-3/4" to fit my Stag). On the right is a standard tungsten sealed beam.

 

[sabot]

Thanks Randall
Tom