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Headlights - suddenly stopped working

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The thing I can't seem to get my head around with the wiring diagram, is the purpose of each wire and the colours. What I'd like to see is that where there is a white wire with a red stripe on the vehicle, it shows it on the diagram and describes what it does e.g. 'battery positive to horn' - although I guess that should be fairly intuitive.

Perhaps I'm not looking at the right wiring diagram...?
 
Which one are you looking at?
 
Well, not perfect. That is actually the first version I made about 7 years ago. There is a newer one with a few changes that you can find HERE. Look on the right side of the page and you'll see the file to download.
 
Champion - thanks Greg.

Question - what are the different devices surrounding the rear plate lights? There's a figure-of-eight, a grey box with black surround and a couple of grey boxes with black surround that have dashes in them.

Like I said - I've no education in Electrical circuitry. I was too busy at school learning practical things like the Kings and Queens of England over the last thousand years!

If only I'd known I'd be a Healey owner...
 
There's a figure-of-eight = <span style="color: #3366FF">That is the lic. plate fuse that was stock for German export only I believe.</span>

a grey box with black surround = <span style="color: #3366FF"> Those are the black bullet connectors you see on the wiring harness. They are single connectors I.E one wire in, one wire out.</span>

a couple of grey boxes with black surround that have dashes in them.= <span style="color: #3366FF"> Same as just above, but these just have more wires branching out of them.</span>
 
Superb - thanks Greg. I got myself a basic kit for stripping wires and a box full of assorted connectors so once I get the switch I shall play and see what I can find.
 
Excellent!
I have to redo a post I was writing cause you're ahead of me now.
grin.gif

What Ed and I were talking about was making a temporary inline fuse to protect the new switch (and the existing wires) if you still have a grounding problem. I cobbled up a photo of what it should look like when your done. I don't know if you have Radio Shack there (not my favorite store), but they sell a 20 amp fuse holder, HERE is a link to it on their website. Oh, get a 20 amp fuse that will fit the holder too.
 
There's a hardware store in the city which has a surprisingly comprehensive collection of electrical connectors and cabling. it's one of my favourite shops in Sydney actually - up there with the outdoor shops, the fishing store and Supercheap Auto.

You've been extremely helpful Greg and Ed - thank you for sharing your advice and experience. Every month or so I'm learning new things about Ruby and this site has been the source of 90% of that knowledge.
 
Righto guys,

The problem turned out to be nothng to do with the licence plate light - I was almost disappointed!

When the driving lights were installed, they weren't on a separate relay so this has been putting additional pressure on the headlights switch.

New, separate relay to be added.

Thanks for your help guys

Rob
 
Glad you found the problem Rob. Yeah, that's a lot of amps going through that blue wire coming outta the switch.
 
Hi Rob,
I handled my driving lights by creating a separate circuit. First, I purchased a second head light switch (3 position) to replace the panel light switch. The top position is off. The middle position turns on the panel lights. The bottom position also turns on the panel lights and powers a relay that then turns on the driving lights. I located the relay close to the fuse panel in the engine compartment where I took the power for the driving lights and fused that circuit with a separate fuse. I ran an insulated wire from the relay along side the wiring bundle that runs to the head lights over the inside left fender well. It is a pretty clean installation that is safe with the relay and its own fuse.
 
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