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Head light question

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SCguy

SCguy

Jedi Warrior
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I went to the local auto parts store to get some head lights (mine are not a matching set and who knows how old?). I was sold Sylvania Halogene lights. Are these OK in our cars without upgrading the wiring. I think I getting confused with the upgrated head lights that Victoria British sells, but I just want to make sure I'm "safe" before I install these.
 
IMHO(In My Humble Opinion)Respectfully! I wouldn't.But if you do.
1.Replace the old headlight switch(alot of current passes
through that switch,and has a tendency to overheat)
2.Upgrade the alternator to an AC Delco
3.Maintain the fuses to UK standard fuses 171/2 blow 35amp
continuous.Stay away from American fuses.
4.Double check your earth grounds
5.Halogen lighting creates hot-spots,& generally runs hotter
than standard incandesent bulbs.
6.FYI;Theirs NO fire retardent material in a Triumph(EXCEPT
A FIRE EXTINGUISHER. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/iagree.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/driving.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/patriot.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/england.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/canpatriot.GIF
 
I ran standard Halogen sealed beams for a long time on the original wiring. Then I upgraded 2 of the cars to the Hella conversions with the replaceable bulbs. One car is still pos. ground with a generator, the other has an alternator. I've never had a lick of trouble with either of them, in over 7 years.
Jeff
 
Larry, FWIW on my '64 TR4 I've run Sylvania halogens for several years with the only mod being a Delco alternator (remember the TR4 came with a generator originally) with no problems.
Fight On!
Bob Muzio
 
You should be ok, but if you have any doubts you can always install a relay in the headlight circuit. It's a basic setup that can be done for under 20 dollars and well within an evenings work.
It basically turns the headlight switch into a control circuit (low current, less chance of letting the smoke out) and provides a good high current circuit to provide power to the headlights themselves.
I believe Moss provides the kit, but if you're cheap, like me, it is easy enough to make.
I can send a diagram and a list of parts you'd need if you like. (future knowlage base article) but please give me a short while to get it drawn up.
 
I have been running with Wagoner Halogen lights for a few years. I also have never had a problem. The relay mentioned might be good for peace of mind. Might investigate that myself.
 
I'll add my 2 cents on NO upgrade needed. My Herald 1200, with original generator and positive ground, still runs the Cibie halogens that a previous owner put in it years ago. All is fine. Similarly, I put Wagner sealed beam halogens in a friend's '72 Spitfire with its original Lucas alternator, about five years ago. All is well to this day.
 
Does this count as 4c if it's the second 2c?

I did upgrade to relays. I didn't think it was necessary, more that I wanted to take the strain off the switch. That was the only bit that resonated out of the whole discussion for me the last time I saw this.

I still need to get a "nicer" way to mount the relays, as they are just screwed to the fender right now - to save some $ go to partsexpress.com for ones that are a LOT cheaper than VB et al. They give you a nice wiring diagram too. I used bullet connectors from britishwiring.com and tapped into the stock harness, so it's not a bad looking installation apart from the relay location.

ymmv of course.
Alan
 
Larry, I converted to halogen several years ago and have had no problems with my stock harness. That said, the harness is new (British Wiring) and all bullet connectors are crimped and soldered, all connector sleeves are lubricated and all grounds are checked and scraped every few months. I chose to go with Cibie soda glass lenses and standard H4 bulbs (Cibie doesn't make bulbs). The soda glass prisms throw a brilliant high beam and a very modest low beam. I went with Cibie Airport fog lights as well, wiring them on a completely independent circuit and though a relay.

Bill
 
I believe VB now promotes a relay package when converting to Halogens. I'm glad that some of you have not had problems with your cars when running halogens but there is a lot of anecdotal evidence out there regarding melted dash switches that suggests it's not a bad idea to add the relays. Doing so takes the load off your dash switches, wiring, and dimmer switch and allows the headlights to be separately fused using "modern" fuses if you desire.

There is a guy on the Triumph forum who operates a side business in TN that sells relay harness kits for LBCs. Sorry, I don't remember his name but the site is:
https://www.advanceautowire.com/
 
A link to a great site & lighting basics.
https://www.danielsternlighting.com/home.html

p.s when I was in the parts buiss 30 yrs a go we were a Cibie dealer, I used to get them for cost, I think they were less than $30/pr for the 7", had Cibies on every car in my house, including my dads '71 Ford F100. When he junked the truck after 20 yrs the Cibie 95's were still in good shape, put them on my '88 Rangie.
 
Thanks for posting Dan Master's name. I bookmarked his site but did not include his name with the link.
 
Daniel Stern and Dan Masters have a difference in oppinions on the correct wiring for headlamp upgrades.
 
It doesn't matter if they're conventional sealed beams, halogens, H4 Europeans or powered by a duranium warp reactor. What matters is how many watts they draw, as that is all that the electrical system sees. I ran H4 European lights for years in Jags, Austins and Triumphs with zero problems (other than being able to see where I was going!)
 
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