TR4/4A Head leaking water

[jimstr4]

My head is leaking out of the plug shown in the photo and into the oil via the pushrods.
I've never replaced a plug myself, left it up to my friend the engine reconditioner, however I can't be bothered removing the head, so will tackle the job in my garage.
Do I just beat it out with a hammer and screwdriver?
Thanks for any advice.

Jim 1962 TR4

 

[Marvin Gruber]

Plug just comes out with some brut persuasion using whatever tool it takes. Hammer and screwdriver will work. Just don't scar the head wall where the plug fits. Punch hole inthe middle in of plug and pry it out.
Marv

 

[JerryVV]

You could try cleaning the area well and some epoxy. But you must get the area free of any oil for the epoxy to stick.

 

[Darrell_Walker]

I'm not 100% sure, but isn't that one of the plugs that threads in, rather than presses in?

 

[CJD]

I'm not 100% sure, but isn't that one of the plugs that threads in, rather than presses in?

I was going to ask that!?!

 

[Marvin Gruber]

I replaced one years ago but don't remember any threads but I have slept since them. A temp fix is JB weld. I did a freeze plug on a Healey engine a couple years ago and its still going.
Marv

 

[TRMark]

Not a difficult repair. Worst part is getting out the aluminum plug. I can't find my pictures, but I drilled two holes in it and made a tool out of small square tube with little tines welded in place to fit the holes then welded a nut on the opposite side, used an impact. The hole is threaded BSP which is very very close to NPT. I re tapped the hole with a 1/2-14 NPT tap and plugged it with an iron pipe plug. Remembered to check an old thread the tap is 3/4"

https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf...ze-on-the-top-of-the-head&highlight=plug+head

 

[jimstr4]

Thanks for the info. The threaded parts sounds like a pain.

 

[jimstr4]

It's been repaired with a cast iron plug.
It was quite difficult to do, requiring the removal of the head and the old plug drilled out and new threads cut in as the old one were badly corroded.
Thankyou for all your advice.

Jim

 

[sp53]

I liked your idea Mark about welding a nut or bolt and then using the impact gun. It sounds clean enough where I would try it with the head on and not worry too much about crap getting into the engine. Did you leave the head in place Mark?
steve

 

[TRMark]

I did it with the head on. The threads are so similar, there isn't much material to remove. The engine is a bit old, so I wasn't all that concerned about a little bit of added crud. The trick was a bit of luck and the little gizmo I made to get out the plug.

 

[TuffTR250]

Jim, I had the same problem on my TR3. I also had to remove the head and get the threads for the plug re-tapped, since they were badly rusted. I used a brass plug. I tied various "fixes" before I removed the head, including, but not limited to, recommended sealants from Permatex Tech support, but none of them worked.
Bob

 

[Sarastro]

Nice job.

My head is at the shop being restored, and of course it will be hot-tanked. I expect the alkali in the tank to eat away most or all of that aluminum plug. So, I have this job in my future too, and it's very helpful to see how others have done it.

 

[trkev]

Hey Jim: Make sure the plug doesn't foul the inside of the rocker cover...

 

[jimstr4]

Thanks for all the support.
I'll definitely try the rocker cover on before I bolt the head on. If it fouls the cover then my angle grinder will be grind the plug back.
I'm waiting for the new head gasket to arrive then I can start the car and try to figure out if my alternator conversion works as the warning light doesn't come on and the ammeter needle doesn't move.
I just need my panelbeater to call me to fix my panels.
Actually I'll start a new thread as a warning to others, the new heritage sills or rocker panels aren't round enough at the ends.