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Head Gasket

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DougF

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I'm looking at replacing the head gasket in the TR6. The engine overheated a couple weeks ago. Things seemed okay but now the system is pressurizing just as the engine is reaching operating temperature. This will be the third time it's been replaced in two driving seasons and is showing the same symptoms as before. Shouldn't be a retorquing issue, but I will test the torque at disassembly.

The head is going to the shop for magnifluxing and checked for warping.

I've been using Payen head gaskets. Never had problems with these before. In fact, never had any head gasket problems before.

Compression ratio is 9.7-1. Any suggestions on a gasket that might provide better results than what I've been experiencing? I have a solid copper one that was given to me, but I want things to seal on the first try.
 
I happen to have some on the shelf and will use it. Not certain if I used it on this engine. Thanks
 
Payen is the best IMHO, others that are good include Fel-Pro.

Did you ever straight edge the block with a feeler gauge?
 
DougF said:
The engine overheated a couple weeks ago.
Click to expand...

I wonder why it overheated? Perhaps there is something amiss unrelated to the head gasket? Overheating will, as you know, cause head gaskets to leak and heads to warp or crack.
Just a thought. Tom
 
The electric fan quit working.

The head is coming off tonight and going to the shop.
 
Have you consider silicone head gasket have being using one of J. Wagner's since 2003 on my TR6, excellent fit up and seal and best of all reusable every 2 yrs remove & reinstall mine to adjust/tighten valves the latest this past August. Another attribute the process of scrapping off old cork gasket from valve cover & engine block is no longer necessary as kits supplied glue glues gasket to valve cover nothing needed on head. Details on his website: T6 Gasket

https://www.jmwagnersales.com/
 
Yes, thank you. I've been using a silicone gasket since I installed an aluminum valve cover. Unfortunately, Wagner's doesn't fit the after market pieces.
 
Sounds like Julius is confusing valve cover gasket with head gasket..unless I missed something in the conversation. :crazyeyes:
 
DougF said:
I'm looking at replacing the head gasket in the TR6. The engine overheated a couple weeks ago. Things seemed okay but now the system is pressurizing just as the engine is reaching operating temperature. This will be the third time it's been replaced in two driving seasons and is showing the same symptoms as before. Shouldn't be a retorquing issue, but I will test the torque at disassembly.

The head is going to the shop for magnifluxing and checked for warping.

I've been using Payen head gaskets. Never had problems with these before. In fact, never had any head gasket problems before.

Compression ratio is 9.7-1. Any suggestions on a gasket that might provide better results than what I've been experiencing? I have a solid copper one that was given to me, but I want things to seal on the first try.
Click to expand...

What do you mean by pressurizing? are you getting some oil seepage from the head gasket?

The same thing happened to me a couple of years ago. While I had the head off I thought I would check the bearings. I found that the rod and main beaings were scored. Mine goty really hot. I don't know how hot yours got but you might want to check it out. I also had the head rebuilt. I have the dist. sent off for rebuild now. I hope to get it back soon so I can get it running.
 
I think that he means that his cooling system is being filled with excess pressure from combustion caused by a leak between cylinders being forced into the water jacket.
 
Yes, after a short idle time, antifreeze is spurting into the overflow bottle. I don't have any oil/antifreeze mixing to speak of.
 
Makes me wonder about your radiator cap. 9 # or 13 , and condition ?
 
The cap was bad and has since been replaced. The radiator is at the shop, and the head will be at the machine shop today.

Stopped at The Roadster Factory yesterday to pick up a new head gasket. The front plate is coming off to fix an oil leak. A few other projects to be completed and I hope to have everything done before cold weather kicks in.
 
OK, back to my TR8 engine story. I had cracked/loose liners (not in a TR6 engine) that allowed combustion to get into the cooling system, but did not allow coolant to get into the oil or for white smoke to blow out of the tailpipe.

The liners started moving up and down in the block and it just got worse and worse until I couldn't run it for more than three minutes and the hoses would look ready to explode. My end result was a replacement engine.

Now as I said, TR6's do not use those types of liners, as they have a solid cast iron block. I have seen many leaks over the years that have gone directly into the cooling system with no evidence of any "typical" head gasket failure signs, like white smoke and milky oil. Have the head checked closely for cracks via magnaflux and pressure testing as well.
 
The shop is closed for the week.

The one plus is the problem isn't in the same area as the last time. Last time, the problem was around #'s 2 and 3 cylinders. This time it is at #5.
 
Good luck Doug. I'm sure that they will test it well before getting back to you.
 
I'm one of the folks who has had bad experiences with solid copper gaskets. I'd never go that way again, but I don't race either.

My Payen sandwich gasket hasn't leaked since I put it in. My car does, however, get hot at stoplights, so I use an auxiliary electric fan.

Careful re-torquing the head studs. I snapped one and stood wondering how I'd fish the stud remnant out of the block. Amazingly it snapped only 1/4" into the block and I used an easy out.
 
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