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Head Gasket

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L

LLAngus

Jedi Knight
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Finally got the garage cleaned out enough to put the GT in so I can remove the head and correct the water problem. It is raining here so the project had to wait until I could get into the garage.

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/driving.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/computer.gif
 
I've had no problems with the FelPro gaskets either.
 
Water in 2,3 cylinders and gasket looks like it was burnt between the two cylinders. There was a crack between #3 and a water way opening in the gasket, but I don't know if it was done when I removed the gasket. Will lay a sraight edge on the block and see if there is a gap. The good news is there is no cracks in the head.

Bruce L /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grouphug.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/computer.gif
 
Bruce...I'd have that head magnafluxed...where you just described it the primary place MGB heads crack! & if it did, it'll be way down inside the valve seat where the water jacket is
 
Especially #3... can't see it from "outside" and dye penetrants applied "cold" don't usually show it. Well worth the "extra effort" now rather than a tail chasing exercise and buying "six packs" of head gaskets later.
 
Thanks for the heads up. I know Chevys but I'm just learning on MG. I do have another head, it came with the car. The block and head were carboned between #2 and 3 cylinders. The rest of the gasket area looked like a normal set. I am wondering about a head that is not true. There are not machine marks on the head surface and the PO said the head was done before he gave me the car. I am going to the machine shop tomorrow and have them look at it.

Bruce L /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/driving.gif
 
Have them look at both! For every 4 heads I take to the machine shop, 3 are good boat anchors!
 
I took out the exhast valves on 2 & 3. Looked inside and did not see any cracks. # 2 is running rich and # 3 is great color. Then put my straight edge on the head after cleaning the gasket material off. There is a bunch of light under the ruler and it doe not change as I move the ruler back and forth. I'm still going to have it magnafluxed and now I'll have the head surfaced. Any other ideas guys.


/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/lol.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thirsty.gif Coffee only
 
Tell 'em you run a 7~12-lb pressurised system/cap and ask 'em to pressure test 'em both as well. I've seen 'em miss a cracked MGB head with Magnaflux: The particles find the crack, the "inspector" doesn't.
 
Bad news. First head has a very seeable crack between 2 & 3. After cleaning it, you can see where the head was overheated--very burnt looking. The spray paint covered the burnt marks. I'm now after the other head to see if is good. Wish me luck!!!!

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cryin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cryin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cryin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif
 
So far so good. The machinist said this head was in better shape than the first. I noticed the first head had single springs on the valves and the second had double springs. Teh first head had a place in the back for a fitting (maybe for smog) and the second head did not. I believe now the second head is the original and the first head was a replacement. Any ideas on the year of the first head with the single vlave springs. Also, I do not ahve to have smog as the car is a 73. What do I have to plug other than the holes in the head to remove the smog and is there going to be a benefit in performance???

Bruce L /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif
 
I'm a bit confused...Was the 1st head the one on the car? It is probably a late 18V head.
 
It was but now I think the head had been changed. The head in the box was painted the same color as the engine. Ya I know I read the post and got cionfused too. The Bad head (one on the car when I got it) had the single springs. The other head had dual springs.
 
Dual springs= early head. Likely it was the original '73. Not sure when the single springs started but '78 comes to mind.

The older heads seem to be a bit stronger: Seen fewer of those with overheat damage, cracks etc. than the later ones. Since it's off (and if it's good) why not do the combustion chamber cc's and port cleaning/matching. It takes time (and a bit of money if a shop does it), but worth the extra effort IMHO.
 
Don't have the available time right now. I'm planning a major this summer when the daughter is back from OSU and working on her Midget. I need the GT running as a daily car ASAP. I do have a manual on how much to remove and where, so I'll be studying it. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cowboy.gif
 
Over the years I made a cure for that: One spare ~everything~!

Rebuild the "spare" and have all sitting off to the side, ready to go. I missed the Lotus chassis part, tho... only one each of those, durnit.
 
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