Not to rain on your parade but I would do some more diagnostics before pulling the head.
If you have oil in the coolant but no coolant in the oil, you may have a "block porosity" problem. It is not real common but I have had two blocks develope this problem. The issue is the natural porosity of cast iron. There are some oil passages that are very close to water jackets and with years of rusting in the water jackets the iron becomes thinner in these areas and oil under 40-60psi can seep thru the iron into the water jackets....40+psi oil vs 7psi water = oil wins so you will usually see oil on the water but not water in the oil. (conversely with a blown head gasket you will likely see water in the oil also)
Moss and others sell a 'oilway repair kit' for this problem. The kit consistes of stainless steel tubes that you apply a sealant to and press in to line the oil passages with. I tried one of these kits several years ago but it did not work for me. One problem is that you need to totally disassemble the motor to a bare block - both for the machining and installation of the tubes and so you can clean thouroughly after installing the tubes. Second problem is that my machine shop was not able to pressure test after installation of the tubes so I assembled the motor not knowing if the problem was corrected or not and, in my case, it was not.
However, I have run my engine with this oil seeping into the water for a long time before replacing the block - I just had to flush and clean the cooling system every 500 miles or so - I would add laundry detergent to the water, run until hot, drain & flush. Sometimes it took a couple of rounds to get it clean, then fill with water & drive. One plus is you don't need to add water pump lube
To your original question, yes the head can be removed by itself but I recommend taking the hood (bonnet) off and using a hoist - these heads are increadibly heavy to lift off by hand.
Dave