• Hey Guest!
    British Car Forum has been supporting enthusiasts for over 25 years by providing a great place to share our love for British cars. You can support our efforts by upgrading your membership for less than the dues of most car clubs. There are some perks with a member upgrade!

    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Upgraded members don't see this banner, nor will you see the Google ads that appear on the site.)
Tips
Tips

TR4/4A Head Gasket Leak TR4A

KVH

Obi Wan
Silver
Country flag
Offline
I really don't want to pull the head again. I just put a new gasket in last year, torqued it correctly, etc. It was the solid, high performance head, and I later learned it can be a problem. The "sandwich" would likely have been better.

The leak is relatively small, but visible near the front of the engine on both sides. Just some slow trickle below the thermostat housing. I can get the scent of coolant in the driver's seat.

I'm thinking of re-torquing and using some "BarsLeak." Some shops actually recommend it, saying TRs will leak even with the best gaskets. Others may disagree.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
 
The solid copper gaskets (made by Gasket Works) require a really smooth engine block and head surface. Also recommended is their special spray sealer and proper curing before the head is torqued. If done correctly, they shouldn't need retorqing.
I'd go to their website https://www.headgasket.com/faq.html and check the FAQS and installation, then call them and ask what to do. They're good people and can help. PeterK
 
Retorquing might be enough if you're lucky. Bars Leak will probably stop the leak for now if it is as small as you think. I have heard the stuff can plug up a partially clogged heater core, though I have used it w/o such a problem.

Different opinions on leak stuff -- I prefer the metal flakes as they seem fairly harmless though in my experience if you drain the coolant the leak comes back if you were using them.

I know 'do-overs' are a pain but pulling the head on this guy is relatively quick if you leave the intake and exhaust manifolds connected, remove the air cleaners and just pull the manifolds back out of the way.
 
Hi Hound I would not use the miracle in the can. I think I would get a dissimilar good torque wrench, a good dial in one. Then maybe raise the torque specs about 10% and see what happens. You might not have it torque tight enough if your wrench is out of calibration. I am at work, so I do not have the numbers, but I think they are like 85+ and this should be with clean and very lightly oil threads. I would maybe go to 100 and if I did not break something, I would be grateful. And if that did not work, I would tear it down. Nothing worse than knowing that you might just blow a gasket.
Reguards George
 
Back
Top