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Head Gasket - Best Practices
- Thread starter mjobrien
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I used some Permatex copper spray gasket sealer, which you should be able to get at pretty much any auto parts store, when I put my head on my 100, I know I had the head of at least three times, never any problems.
I told a car buddy this and he said that product was "old school" don't know if he was teasing or if in fact something newer and better has come along?
I told a car buddy this and he said that product was "old school" don't know if he was teasing or if in fact something newer and better has come along?
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Assuming you are talking about the Hundred Four. The headbolt pattern/spacing is not ideal under the best of circumstances.
I have used the copper-asbestos-copper sandwich gaskets plus copper sealer, with "near" success. When I pulled the head after a couple of years running there were signs of beginning leakage between cylinders. No actual measurable compression changes yet. This with the DWR high tensile head studs, & hardened washers. Continued running would have resulted in progressive failure.
Looking for a better solution, I used the DWR multi layer steel gasket. This gasket is the latest technology & works very well on difficult to seal engines such as the Four. Again with the DWR head studs & hardened washers. I have checked bolt torque several times, no changes from original. Absolutely NO coolant, oil, or compression leaks.
A quote on MLS gaskets,
-----MLS head gaskets are made of several layers of embossed stainless steel. A thin coating (0.001- to 0.0015-inch) of nitrile rubber or Viton is used on the external surfaces as well as between the layers to provide maximum sealing. MLS gaskets are almost bullet-proof - but also more expensive than conventional soft-faced gaskets. Even so, if you want to fix the problem once and for all, MLS is the way to go in this application.
Requires a smooth surface finish. 20 RA. Very smooth. Head & block flat to less than .002".------
The theory is that the mating parts always move a bit with expansion-contraction of the parts. The MLS permits this slight movement without compromising the seal. A rougher surface finish would bite into the gasket surfaces & prevent part of this movement.
The standard procedures for installation should be followed.
1- Clean all stud threaded holes with a tap.
2- Countersink/chamfer threaded block holes to prevent lifting the top thread
3- Use sealer on all stud threads that extend into water or oil passages
4- Install studs into block only finger tight, not torqued
5- Use lubrication on the top stud threads & washers, torque to 75 lb/ft in stages
6- Loosen & re-torque several times before final tightening to bed & smooth the threads into the mating surfaces.
You might get by with compromises along the way & maybe not. Why take the chance.
I guess you already know about the rocker oil feed stand to shaft pre-alignment before assembly.
D
I have used the copper-asbestos-copper sandwich gaskets plus copper sealer, with "near" success. When I pulled the head after a couple of years running there were signs of beginning leakage between cylinders. No actual measurable compression changes yet. This with the DWR high tensile head studs, & hardened washers. Continued running would have resulted in progressive failure.
Looking for a better solution, I used the DWR multi layer steel gasket. This gasket is the latest technology & works very well on difficult to seal engines such as the Four. Again with the DWR head studs & hardened washers. I have checked bolt torque several times, no changes from original. Absolutely NO coolant, oil, or compression leaks.
A quote on MLS gaskets,
-----MLS head gaskets are made of several layers of embossed stainless steel. A thin coating (0.001- to 0.0015-inch) of nitrile rubber or Viton is used on the external surfaces as well as between the layers to provide maximum sealing. MLS gaskets are almost bullet-proof - but also more expensive than conventional soft-faced gaskets. Even so, if you want to fix the problem once and for all, MLS is the way to go in this application.
Requires a smooth surface finish. 20 RA. Very smooth. Head & block flat to less than .002".------
The theory is that the mating parts always move a bit with expansion-contraction of the parts. The MLS permits this slight movement without compromising the seal. A rougher surface finish would bite into the gasket surfaces & prevent part of this movement.
The standard procedures for installation should be followed.
1- Clean all stud threaded holes with a tap.
2- Countersink/chamfer threaded block holes to prevent lifting the top thread
3- Use sealer on all stud threads that extend into water or oil passages
4- Install studs into block only finger tight, not torqued
5- Use lubrication on the top stud threads & washers, torque to 75 lb/ft in stages
6- Loosen & re-torque several times before final tightening to bed & smooth the threads into the mating surfaces.
You might get by with compromises along the way & maybe not. Why take the chance.
I guess you already know about the rocker oil feed stand to shaft pre-alignment before assembly.
D
Randy Forbes
Yoda
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I too will vouch for the MLS head gasket, though I haven't needed one yet for my Healey 6-cylinder engine(s).
I was having trouble with my supercharged M Rdstr pressurizing the cooling system. Compression & leak-down tests would all yield xlnt results, but the problem persisted (including trace amounts of sodium in the oil analysis samples).
I pulled the head and had it resurfaced for the MLS gskt, installed ARP head studs (cycled like Dave's DWR studs) and haven't over-pressured my cooling system since.
Use no sealants on the mating surfaces of an MLS gskt; clean & dry. Exceptions being a dab of sealant at the mating joint of the block/timing case.
I was having trouble with my supercharged M Rdstr pressurizing the cooling system. Compression & leak-down tests would all yield xlnt results, but the problem persisted (including trace amounts of sodium in the oil analysis samples).
I pulled the head and had it resurfaced for the MLS gskt, installed ARP head studs (cycled like Dave's DWR studs) and haven't over-pressured my cooling system since.
Use no sealants on the mating surfaces of an MLS gskt; clean & dry. Exceptions being a dab of sealant at the mating joint of the block/timing case.
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No other sources that I know of. There is so little call for such gaskets, that DW likely had a special run of them made. I certainly won't fit much else except a few A90's. There could be another UK source but I doubt it would be any cheaper.
The price IS outrageous but they certainly do the job.
D
The price IS outrageous but they certainly do the job.
D
Randy Forbes
Yoda
Offline
I pay just a tick under $200.00 for a BMW 6-cyl MLS gskt, and you know how many of those engines are in circulation!Dave Russell said:
The same BMW gskt is available in a range of bore diameters to cover 2.0 to 3.2 Ltr engines, and thicknesses from .070" (stock) to .140" for cut heads to turbo/supercharger applications.