Wedge he TR7 People - Help Me out Here

[AngliaGT]

I found a nice '77 TR7 that I'm thinking of buying.
I'll probably sell the TR6 (& maybe the '67 MGB GT),but
I'm trying to get some advice before I make my decision.
What's your opinion of the TR7?Would you sell it &
buy a TR6 or MGB GT?
What's the good/bad points about a TR7?
Monica,where are you?

- Doug

 

[tr8todd]

77 was the cross over year. Cars built prior to May or so were the 4 speed, weak rear diff, 4 fuse cars with the big gas caps. Cars built after the retooling/strike from Sept or so on were the 5 speed, TR8 rear diff, small gas cap cars. Needless to say, the later cars are far better. There are lots of other small differences that make the later cars a better more reliable product. The only body change is the move to a smaller gas cap and the body panel where the cap goes. This was made smaller in anticipation of the upcoming convertibles and the need for a little extra room to mount the folding top to the body. A good clean 77 should cost $2500 to $3500. If you plan to spend more than that, you should seriously be considering a TR8. Be wary of any wedge that has sat for a long period of time, is fluffed up by a "classic car dealer" or isn't owned and driven by someone that knows wedges. Good TR7s are cheap. Save yourself some headaches and buy one from a wedge enthusiast. There are a surprising number of us out there.

 

[justin_mercier]

TR7s are very fun to drive, and in fact my wedge handled better than any classic british car I've ever driven, but don't spend too much. My 77 TR7 was a show winner, with 27k original miles, immaculately kept records and documentation, and lots of extras, and I got $4500 for it when I sold it, and it probably should have gone for around $4000 knowing that the paint was over buffed in areas, particularly the ridges at the edge of the roof.

Personally, I'd keep one a convertible in addition to a 77 wedge, so you can have one coupe and one convertible. If you really want to get a nice wedge coupe, I think Alan Atkinson, who runs the 6-pack.org site still has his 79 TR8 coupe for sale, and it's pretty immaculate.

I sold my wedge to pay for more parts for my TR6... and now my TR6 wont even be a TR6 when it's done =P Maybe i should have kept the wedge!

 

[AngliaGT]

This is a '77 with a 5 speed,so I assume one of the better cars.
Again,would you sell your TR7 to buy a '67 MGB GT?
And any other reasons that I should do this?

- Doug

 

[Mickey Richaud]

This is a '77 with a 5 speed,so I assume one of the better cars.
Again,would you sell your TR7 to buy a '67 MGB GT?
And any other reasons that I should do this?

- Doug

OK, maybe I'm the only one who's confused here. Doug, in your first post you mentioned selling the BGT and the TR6, and buying the TR7. Here you've flipped it. Are you asking TR7 owners if they'd sell in order to get a BGT?

At any rate, you're going to get a variety of opinions. However, I'm fairly certain that the TR7 enjoys a narrower market than the BGT. Completely different animals, both cars and drivers.

Which one do YOU want? Which one speaks to YOU?


Mickey

 

[tdskip]

Very different cars Doug, drive both and you'll know. TR7 convertible will feel more modern and is a better highway car. BGT will feel more solid and vintage. Running costs will be close enough to be a non-issue.

 

[Mickey Richaud]

OK - just re-read the post. Clear now.

But I'll restate my question: Which one do YOU want?

 

[TR3driver]

I wouldn't own a BGT to begin with (gotta be a ragtop for me), but sell a TR6 to buy a TR7? Never! Now if it was a nice TR8 ragtop, I'd be all over it.

The TR7 has a anemic 4 banger that is renowned for having all sorts of problems. That includes the "I forgot to change the coolant, now it needs a new motor" problem. Read some of the horror stories on what it takes just to get the cylinder head off sometimes.

In stock form, it's significantly slower than the TR6. There is of course the potential to improve performance, but there are relatively few speed parts available for the TR7; while there are many available for the TR6 (including a blower kit, fuel injection, etc). And in CA (perhaps not in Eureka?) you have the specter of biannual smog inspection.

IMO, NFI, YMMV, this offer void where not prohibited, etc.

 

[GilsTR]

Doug....I might vote to sell the BGT and have some bucks to make the TR6 run like you would want it to. Then again... if the Eureka weather is getting to you a little... you might be ready to part with the rag top. Gil NoCal

 

[AngliaGT]

I'm planning on selling the TR6 to pay off bills.
I was thinking that I could buy the TR7 with part of the
money.
I'll have to think long & hard before I let go of
the GT,as it's in good shape,& it's a '67.I also have no
idea of what it's worth.

- Doug

 

[Mickey Richaud]

Hang on to the GT.

Trust me.

Or send it down here; I'll keep it safe for ya.

 

[tr8todd]

I think if you check your facts, you will see that TR7s were in fact significantly faster that all of the TR6s that came stateside. The PI TR6s that were available in England with 150HP were faster. Here are the numbers from the TR Register. TR6 106HP and a 0-60 of 10.7sec. TR7 105HP and a 0-60 of 9.1 sec.

 

[TR3driver]

Was that not for a UK-spec TR7? I don't have the reference handy, but I distinctly recall either Motor Trend or Road & Track criticizing them for being slower than their predecessor.

And I know from experience that my TR3 is faster in a straight line.

 

[mrv8q]

And in CA (perhaps not in Eureka?) you have the specter of biannual smog inspection.

I think Randall makes a very good point about smog inspections on our LBCs here in California. Just yesterday, I was talking to the original owner of a mint '76 TR6. We were specifically looking at all the emissions control gear on his car, and he told a tale of woe about the biannual task of leaning out the car to pass the smog test, only to have to
return to his mechanic and make it run better after the test.

Before I bought my '74 TR6, I made sure it didn't need the biannual inspections; if it had, I wouldn't have bought it. It's something to really have to think about in this state. As much as I would be interested in a TR8, it's probably too "new" for me to consider; too bad!

 

[TR3driver]

I think if you check your facts, you will see that TR7s were in fact significantly faster that all of the TR6s that came stateside.

Well, I guess the difference <span style="font-weight: bold">was </span>smaller than I remembered. I found a R&T test of the early US-spec TR6 that gave 10.7 sec 0-60; while a C&D test of the early TR7 found 11.3 sec 0-60. But the TR7 was still slower (when you compare US spec to US spec). BTW, it was also slower than my Chevy 5 passenger hatchback ...

And the US-spec TR7 (which had 8:1 compression instead of 9.25) was given as 92 bhp (lower in later years), never 105.

 

[DanB]

As far as after market speed parts availability for a TR7 vs. a TR6, I think Ted S. would argue that point with you Randall.


Dan B

 

[tdskip]

Getting my TR8 SMOG'd in CA has been a non-event (so far anyway) for whatever that is worth.

I think the first several cut over years are more problematic than later years. Heck, my Rover SD1 passed first try after sitting for 5+ years.

 

[TR3driver]

As far as after market speed parts availability for a TR7 vs. a TR6, I think Ted S. would argue that point with you Randall.

\
Oh, does he offer a blower for the TR7? I didn't know that.

 

[GilsTR]

I think smog checks in California may vary by the county or region that ones lives. Doug and I are lucky enough to live North of the SF Bay Area...and to this point....seen to be exempt of that challenge....That is for 1974 and older cars. Never fear...I am sure they will work their way up here some day too! Gil NoCal

 

[DanB]

Randall, I don't know about a blower kit, but Ted has been quoted as saying something like "why would you build a TR8..I can build a TR7 that will go faster..."

Maybe a sprint head? I don't know what else. I am sure a blower can be fitted.