HD8 SU Carburetor removal

[pkmh]

Hello again all,

Well, just for curiosity, I attempted to see if I could get my standard 1/2" wrench into some kind of position of that one forward and underneath nut to the second carburetor I mentioned I was having trouble with.

I did! For about one small turn...then that was pretty much it. Really a problem for my arm in there unless someone put a gun to my head.

Sooo, for whatever it is worth to the community out there (progress wise), I have decided that because I will dismantle my clutch and brake master cylinders anyway, then what's the big deal in removing the reservoir as well? Afterall, by removing the reservoir, surely I can get my arm in a better position in removing the carb nut in question, yes?

Naturally, I tried using a standard 9/16" size wrench to remove the reservoir but I noticed I had no room to pivot the wrench. So, I tried to remove the connections to the master cylinders, allowing me to remove the reservior with the rigid hose connections. Well gee, I had no room to maneuver either. So, I tried to remove the screw securing the bracket holding the reservoir in attempts to cheat a little by bending the unit but found the screw's nut from behind was doing a free spin with no way to get to it unless removing the air shroud(?)(this is beginning to sound like that old grammar school song..."There's a hole in the bottom of the sea...").

Anyway, I now made two custom wrenches. One which is an open 1/2" stubby, the other an open 9/16" stubby. I may have to make a stubby and skinny 9/16" to brace the securing nut mounted at the reservoir underneath to avoid damage to the reservoir, if you follow.

Just thought I'd share my experiences. But I don't feel licked, by any means!!! Having the right tools means everything!!! (and yes, longer arms and fingernails help, too).

Paul

 

[Keoke]

H Paul, "I have always removed those bottom bolts using a stubby standard closed end wrench"

 

[pkmh]

Thanks Keoke. I will remove the reservoir this go around, too. In fact, that whole section for the engine compartment is going to get a facelift.

 

[fordtrucks4ever]

I didnt have the luxury of this site to turn to when my carbs needed to be rebuilt. Blindly I just removed them and dont remember having any major problems getting to any of the nuts. I didnt use any particular wrenches either. Maybe it was such a horrific experience that I have been in denial about the whole affair since.
My car had been sitting depreciating for about 15 years in a neglected state when I purchased it. Without giving it a very close inspection, it looked all complete and nothing rusted out, so I jumped on it. It was late when I got home and then decided to see if it would turn over and maybe fire up. I knew the fuel system was crapped out, but with a gravity feed tank above the engine I proceeded to crank it over. The picture of those carbs with one dry bowl reminded me of this. The motor fired up slowly and didnt rev up much. I then realized it must have been only running on one carb. But it was at least running. There was an ear to ear smile on my face that was so big it was blurring my vision. I pulled off the tops of both carbs and saw that definately one carb was flooding and the other was dry. Since that nite, I had to educate myself in working on British cars, since everything was in total disrepair, which seems typical for any British vehicle.

 

[richberman]

Hello again all,

Well, just for curiosity, I attempted to see if I could get my standard 1/2" wrench into some kind of position of that one forward and underneath nut to the second carburetor I mentioned I was having trouble with.

I did! For about one small turn...then that was pretty much it. Really a problem for my arm in there unless someone put a gun to my head.

Sooo, for whatever it is worth to the community out there (progress wise), I have decided that because I will dismantle my clutch and brake master cylinders anyway, then what's the big deal in removing the reservoir as well? Afterall, by removing the reservoir, surely I can get my arm in a better position in removing the carb nut in question, yes?

Naturally, I tried using a standard 9/16" size wrench to remove the reservoir but I noticed I had no room to pivot the wrench. So, I tried to remove the connections to the master cylinders, allowing me to remove the reservior with the rigid hose connections. Well gee, I had no room to maneuver either. So, I tried to remove the screw securing the bracket holding the reservoir in attempts to cheat a little by bending the unit but found the screw's nut from behind was doing a free spin with no way to get to it unless removing the air shroud(?)(this is beginning to sound like that old grammar school song..."There's a hole in the bottom of the sea...").

Anyway, I now made two custom wrenches. One which is an open 1/2" stubby, the other an open 9/16" stubby. I may have to make a stubby and skinny 9/16" to brace the securing nut mounted at the reservoir underneath to avoid damage to the reservoir, if you follow.

Just thought I'd share my experiences. But I don't feel licked, by any means!!! Having the right tools means everything!!! (and yes, longer arms and fingernails help, too).

Paul

Paul,
At this point why not just lift the entire engine and transmission out with an engine crane. Then you should have enough space!
Rich

 

[elrey]

--elrey

 

[tahoe healey]

Unfortunately, you need to pull the carbs to do that. No win there.
I saw gloves that have a magnet on the finger tip for holding screws and nuts. Anyone use something like this? I figured it would get hung up on every piece of metal on the car.

 

[pkmh]

Ha Rich! Funny, I was wondering how they put it all together back then, methodically anyway. I had a TR6 and that was a piece of cake!

Side tracking for the moment, I remember how easy it was to replace the alternator and the belt on the TR. That was the last thing I did on my Healey and that was no piece of cake either, especially hunting down a fan belt to fit

. A Gates 9447 belt worked well for me after numerous tries with different brands.

Paul​

 

[Keoke]

saw gloves that have a magnet on the finger tip for holding screws and nuts. Anyone use something like this?

WOT!!!------------------------------

 

[pkmh]

Well, Rich, I didn't have to drop the engine after all to get to the carbs.

Got the brake/clutch canister off and then the carburetors off today, using the modified wrenches I made yesterday. Yes, a closed stubby 1/2" would of been more idea than the open one I made for the carbs, but I will make one of those before they all go back into place.

The only casualty is a small nut escaped from the horizontal linkage to the [diagonal] linkage. I haven't given up on finding that, yet. But I don't feel it's the end of the world (though I try to be a purist and keep everything as original as possible).

One thing for sure, I have to try to do all that is required in completing the rebuilding or refurbishing of parts in that area of the engine for I do not want to have to remove the canister, the carbs or the master cylinders for some time. I also better take excellent record photos of the carbs "as is" and of course, after.

My other worry is if the rebuilding kit I have (Moss #375-328) is going to be adaquate to complete the rebuild. Not going to know until things move along.

I'll keep you posted of any snags along the way.

Thanks for all the advice, thus far.

Paul

 

[John Turney]

...

The only casualty is a small nut escaped from the horizontal linkage to the [diagonal] linkage. I haven't given up on finding that, yet. ...

I seem to find that small parts tend to disappear into the diagonal that goes from the firewall down (where the master cylinders are mounted). I must have several pounds of nuts and bolts in there. I finally made a piece out of aluminum to keep things from falling all the way in and getting lost.

 

[Keoke]

...

The only casualty is a small nut escaped from the horizontal linkage to the [diagonal] linkage. I haven't given up on finding that, yet. ...

I seem to find that small parts tend to disappear into the diagonal that goes from the firewall down (where the master cylinders are mounted).


Yep so get one of those small telescopic magnets and fish
the nut / all the bits out.---Keoke

 

[tahoe healey]

I guess we forgot to remind you about the black hole below the carbs. There is an open place above the frame, below the front carb that grabs nuts and bolts. (I found a couple of tools and nuts in mine when I first got my car) Stuff it with a rag or I put a block of Styrofoam in mine. You can use a magnet and pull all kinds of stuff out that the previous owner lost.

 

[pkmh]

Thanks for the tips. Yes, I do have one of those telescopic magnets and did try in some of those hidden chassis holes (black holes?). Either I didn't quite catch it yet or it fell somewhere else. The car seems to be clean--I haven't been pulling up "anything" (and too bad, no treasure either).

But from the sound of it falling, it sounded like it came to rest on some hollow metal.

Paul

 

[pkmh]

Hello again everyone!

First, I want to again express my thanks to all those for their great advice and input given to me regarding how to remove the SU's from the engine as well as other thoughts presented. Very much appreciated! Thank you all!!

I am advancing along with overhauling the SU's, having spent a good deal of time removing all surface grime from everywhere and simply becoming acquainted with all areas movable or not, inside and out. But this time, I feel I have to present other "specific" issues relating to the SU's themselves. I hope the community can offer any advice for the following areas involving the jet, the jet needle and diaphragm.

My questions are:

1. Does the jet and jet needle assembly (the area visible at the 'Ventura' opening) require replacement of a rubble "O" or other type ring or seal? If so, the procedure for removing those pieces for such placement. I am already aware of the set screw for removal of the jet needle. But removal of the darkened disk surrounding the needle (and jet), I am just curious to know if further dismantling is necessary.

As an added note to the above, I do remember one of the oil reservoirs becoming depleted of oil after a short period of time, while running the car in *idle (*car is on floor jacks and is not road ready, yet).

2. In removing the diaphragm, is it held in position by means of pressure or just how is that removed? Right now, it is positioned very taut within what I assume to be the jet cup and I am fearful of using any unnessary force.

Thanks again for any advice you can offer.

Paul

 

[Keoke]

Hello again everyone!

First, I want to again express my thanks to all those for their great advice and input given to me regarding how to remove the SU's from the engine as well as other thoughts presented. Very much appreciated! Thank you all!!

I am advancing along with overhauling the SU's, having spent a good deal of time removing all surface grime from everywhere and simply becoming acquainted with all areas movable or not, inside and out. But this time, I feel I have to present other "specific" issues relating to the SU's themselves. I hope the community can offer any advice for the following areas involving the jet, the jet needle and diaphragm.

My questions are:

1. Does the jet and jet needle assembly (the area visible at the 'Ventura' opening) require replacement of a rubble "O" or other type ring or seal? NO!!--


If so, the procedure for removing those pieces for such placement. I am already aware of the set screw for removal of the jet needle. But removal of the darkened disk surrounding the needle (and jet), I am just curious to know if further dismantling is necessary. --???--
But I think NO

As an added note to the above, I do remember one of the oil reservoirs becoming depleted of oil after a short period of time, while running the car in *idle (*car is on floor jacks and is not road ready, yet).---

It can not go completely dry unless the piston assembly is cracked and that is unlikely.

2. In removing the diaphragm, is it held in position by means of pressure--
-Yes when you remove the bottom of the carb body and it should come free

or just how is that removed? Right now, it is positioned very taut within what I assume to be the jet cup and I am fearful of using any unnecessary force.

--The diaphragm may be just stuck to the top half of the carb body and can be carefully separated.

Thanks again for any advice you can offer.

Paul

More help be along in a bit---Keoke-

 

[richberman]

Randy,
You better get cracking...Keoke has over 9000 posts :wink:
Oh wait...change that....Keoke doesn't take the time to take or upload photos....that slows you down!
rich

 

[Keoke]

:lol:
Truthfully,Rich:
I do not have any photos I don't think digital were invented then. Additionally, I did not want any memories of the misery [$$$$$]] I went through -OK--Keoke-

 

[Randy Forbes]

Randy,
You better get cracking...Keoke has over 9000 posts :wink:
Oh wait...change that....Keoke doesn't take the time to take or upload photos....that slows you down!
rich

No, I don't think it's the time it takes to post pictures, just that Keoke's four (4) times as full of crap that I am...

:wink: :wink:

 

[Keoke]

NOPE!!
Only 3.771951727 times--Keoke------- :laugh: