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HD8 SU Carburetor removal

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pkmh

pkmh

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Hello Community!

Finally we have nice weather here today, so I decided to become more familiar with my HD8 SU Carburetors (proceeding with caution, mind you) by attempting to remove them for rebuilding purposes and while at it, gain easier access in repairing or replacing both clutch and brake master cylinders below it.

I almost was completely successful in removing all securing carburetor rear body mounting bolts to the intake (except one, of course), the one positioned below and forward on the rear SU. I experimented in removing the slip linkage between the two SU's so as to remove one carburetor (front) first, but there must be something else I am required to do in order to successfully remove the entire linkage, maybe?

I was hopeful in removing the sixth bolt so I can remove the SU's in its entirety. Does that sound like the right way to go?

If so, should I then be looking for a special tool for that hard to get to place or is there an easier way (ie.- understanding removing slip linkage)? I have no material so far on dismantling but if I could get past this hurdle, I should be in good shape to proceed.

And thoughts on this?

Thanks,

Paul
 
H Paul, I have always removed those bottom bolts using a stubby standard closed end wrench . Standing at the front of the car I can usually reach under the carbs with my right arm extended and get to those buggers.Need a long arm and patience. If patience runs short CUSS.---Fwiw--Keoke-- :laugh:
 
Keoke said:
H Paul, I have always removed those bottom bolts using a stubby standard closed end wrench . Standing at the front of the car I can usually reach under the carbs with my right arm extended and get to those buggers.Need a long arm and patience. If patience runs short CUSS.---Fwiw--Keoke-- :laugh:
Click to expand...

Ditto from me, and my arms aren't particularly long.

You can tell a Healey owner by the scars on his/her forearms.
 
Well thanks for that advice. Sounds like I was so close to success, then. It was good practice anyway, to start removing required pieces and more importantly, putting all pieces back, which is what I did after not going any further.

That and plenty of record photos as I go.

Thanks!

Paul
 
It ain't no hassle You just gotta be full grown up. You know like 6'4" tall or more--Keoke- :laugh:
 
I like the 6'-4" approach, but because of my height, maybe I'll do like what one past talk show host used to do...You know, the one who liked jump over people to get the question asked. In my case, I'll jump into the engine compartment with my mighty little wrench.

I'm getting ready!

Paul
 
It may be a bugger getting the nuts off but just you wait, you gotta put them babies back on again :yesnod:

Of course us BJ7 owners don't have that trouble, :banana: 'cause we only have little carbs, though one or two of the bottom nuts can be a tad tricky :nopity:
 
Bob Hughes said:
It may be a bugger getting the nuts off but just you wait, you gotta put them babies back on again :yesnod:

Of course us BJ7 owners don't have that trouble, :banana: 'cause we only have little carbs, though one or two of the bottom nuts can be a tad tricky :nopity:
Click to expand...

:savewave:
NAA!!! Reinstallation is simply the reverse of removal.-- Keoke--- :driving:
 
Well, I got good practice for I was able to put all the other nuts back on and that includes the washers and lock washers that went with each (taking them off underneath was pretty tricky, especially the washers for me).

(But come to think of it, a little magnet would do the trick).
 
Sorry about the late post Paul hope you haven't removed them already. There is a special tool for that job. First you buy a cheap 1/2" wrench then grind down the edges until they'll fit. I also cut the wrench in half to make it shorter. By standing on the drivers side I'm always able to reach under the carbs using my left hand to get that nut off. It might make it easier to remove the choke cables and the overflow tubing first.

Good luck and let us know how you did.
 
Thanks for the good idea about grinding down a 1/2" wrench! I will consider that approach. Somehow, the 7 out of 8 nuts proved not to be terribly challenging, happy to say (the first go around, anyway).

I have been using a simple 1/2" wrench for all the nuts except that special one I couldn't get to. But I am going to try to grow some arms first and dive into the engine area and see if I get lucky that way. I know my wrench will work once I get into the right position. Putting it back on...well, we shall see.

Er, better give me a few days to get ready before letting you know how things turn out.

But thanks for that tip!!

Paul
 
Sometimes a 'magnet on a stick" helps get the washer back on. Also you can use tape to hold the nut and washer to a wrench to get it in place. I use a set of "stubby" ratchet wrenches. I have also shortened the air cleaner studs between the two carbs cause when you tighten the out-ward nuts you can never get the inner nuts on. You will learn your own tricks. one guy i know uses tape on his finger to get the nuts in place. It does work.
 
Actually, Tahoe, I felt putting the washers on the carburetor body were easy, compared to trying to take them off and that's because the washers tend to get stuck on the bolt screw threads (and maybe because the screwthreads are on a slight incline angle, making removing a bit of a challenge with just using one's fingers).

Thank you for that advice!

Now if only I had longer fingernails.

Paul
 
Oh yes R &R on HD8's
i cant do it.. plain and simple always end up scratched & bleeding
I call my wife (smaller hands, longer fingers & skinnier forearm)
she is a good sport/ claims credit on the rebuild
oh longer fingernails also
 
WOT!!!------------- :shocked:


---How much did her manicure cost you????------Keoke-- :laugh:
 
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