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regularman
Yoda
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If you have, what were the reasons for doing it? I am going to be puttng a bugeye bonnet on a latest project midget and wanted to know if this is something I need to do.
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Have you converted to a forward tilt bonnet?
- Thread starter regularman
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Gerard
Luke Skywalker
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If you mean on a Bugeye, they are very difficult to work on in the normal hinged fashion. Guaranteed head banger no matter how many times you remind yourself and heck on the back too. Any one piece bonnet on any of the years would be the same. 
FYI... https://gerardsgarage.com/Garage/Tech/tilthinge/tilthingeWS.htm
FYI... https://gerardsgarage.com/Garage/Tech/tilthinge/tilthingeWS.htm
OP
regularman
Yoda
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Ah, so it looks like I might as well do this while I am at it. Its going to be a while before I get to it but I will plan on doing this. Since I will be putting a bugeye nose on a 78 midget, I am sure the frame out there in that area will be much different from an original bugeye.
OP
regularman
Yoda
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Ah, I didn't realize that there was a quota and it was full. I cleared them all.
Jim_Gruber
Yoda
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Kim,
For your noggin first and foremost. The BE Bonnet definitely will let you know it's there. That and your back the first time you need to do maintenance under the hood. And the cool factor around other Spridgets. You'll definitely stand out. I always wanted a Sprite after my buddy got a brand new '68 Sprite for a HS Graduation present. I found Bugsy a '68 Sprite and he's served me well for the last 10 years. But a buddy of mine had a BE Bonnet that he had always intended to put on his '69 Sprite. Well that bonnet had been sitting for 15 years and never got installed. I made him an offer he could not refuse and that bonnet was mine.
BE Bonnet and Front tilt best of both worlds along with roll up windows and a trunk. Hinges you can easily fabricate yourself or Gerard has a beautiful set of SS Brackets that really look nice. Blueprints are on Gerard's website.Do it, you'll like it.
For your noggin first and foremost. The BE Bonnet definitely will let you know it's there. That and your back the first time you need to do maintenance under the hood. And the cool factor around other Spridgets. You'll definitely stand out. I always wanted a Sprite after my buddy got a brand new '68 Sprite for a HS Graduation present. I found Bugsy a '68 Sprite and he's served me well for the last 10 years. But a buddy of mine had a BE Bonnet that he had always intended to put on his '69 Sprite. Well that bonnet had been sitting for 15 years and never got installed. I made him an offer he could not refuse and that bonnet was mine.
BE Bonnet and Front tilt best of both worlds along with roll up windows and a trunk. Hinges you can easily fabricate yourself or Gerard has a beautiful set of SS Brackets that really look nice. Blueprints are on Gerard's website.Do it, you'll like it.
OP
regularman
Yoda
Offline
Yes, I looked at Gerards stuff. Man that is sweet. It will depend on how much I have to spend when I actually get to that point. I have access at my work to a lot of scrap metal and machinery. I would hate to just flat out make a copy of Gerard's work without giving him something in return.
This bonnet is going to need a lot of work. At some point, someone has hit something and there is damage on both corners and wrinkles in the center of both wheel arches. I have already been looking at how to put some thicker steel in the area to toughen it up when I straighten those out.
One other question that comes to mind. Have any of you added any steel to the nose area to give strength to the front tilt hinge to prevent flexing?
I have some rusted holes in the lift handle area and will have to cut out and weld in a 4 inch strip there. I will probably go back with 20gauge steel there. Its a lot thicker and easier to work with with the welder that I have plus it gives strength and won't rust through again.
This bonnet is going to need a lot of work. At some point, someone has hit something and there is damage on both corners and wrinkles in the center of both wheel arches. I have already been looking at how to put some thicker steel in the area to toughen it up when I straighten those out.
One other question that comes to mind. Have any of you added any steel to the nose area to give strength to the front tilt hinge to prevent flexing?
I have some rusted holes in the lift handle area and will have to cut out and weld in a 4 inch strip there. I will probably go back with 20gauge steel there. Its a lot thicker and easier to work with with the welder that I have plus it gives strength and won't rust through again.
OP
regularman
Yoda
Offline
Oh, and one more thing. Bonnet latches, what is everybody with a forward tilt using? I saw coastalman's setup using Triumph latches from a spit or something and that is great. I don't know what I will use at this point. I certainly want to get something that makes the bonnet line up exactly with the body. I have seen those that don't and It doesn't look quite right and would drive me nuts.
Jim_Gruber
Yoda
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Kim,
I was able to work from that same blueprint and in fact I gave it to him to post at his site some years ago. I was able to build these from some scrap aluminum for the big brace and some flat steel plate using just a drill press, angle grinder, some files, and a little bit of arm strength. I uses 3 layers of 1/8" aluminum plate rather than 1/4" steel plate for the big hinge piece. Bonded together with JG Weld and 5 years+ later it still works fine.
I did have some rust inside the front behind the grill. I added some aluminum 1" angle iron and pop rivited in place, this was in the pre welder days. I cleaned everything up, ground out rust, and used the aluminum channel to reinforce things. There really is a lot of meat up there to work with and the bonnet really is quite strong.
Cracks over the wheel arches. Frank used to use some 1/4" stainless rebar. Now I've never seen rebar that small but maybe someone on the list can help. Rebar goes into the arch under the lip and reinforces everything. Weld in place and much, much stronger.
Latches come from the McMaster Carr catalog. Sears under Stainless Steel Adjustable Draw Latches. IThey are pretty inexpensive and rated for 400 lbs. I tried several sets of those nice latches from Winners Circle and after breaking 4 of them went to these from McMaster Carr. Two small self tapping screws to mount and away you go. You need to be able to do adjustments to the latches as the bonnet will take on a slightly different shape after it gets mounted and latches down. SPitfire latches really look cool but a PITA to mount and fit. Frank used them on his Sprite with the fiberglass Speedwell Bonnet but big difference repairing fiberglass than metal.
Need pics, let me know and I can send.
I was able to work from that same blueprint and in fact I gave it to him to post at his site some years ago. I was able to build these from some scrap aluminum for the big brace and some flat steel plate using just a drill press, angle grinder, some files, and a little bit of arm strength. I uses 3 layers of 1/8" aluminum plate rather than 1/4" steel plate for the big hinge piece. Bonded together with JG Weld and 5 years+ later it still works fine.
I did have some rust inside the front behind the grill. I added some aluminum 1" angle iron and pop rivited in place, this was in the pre welder days. I cleaned everything up, ground out rust, and used the aluminum channel to reinforce things. There really is a lot of meat up there to work with and the bonnet really is quite strong.
Cracks over the wheel arches. Frank used to use some 1/4" stainless rebar. Now I've never seen rebar that small but maybe someone on the list can help. Rebar goes into the arch under the lip and reinforces everything. Weld in place and much, much stronger.
Latches come from the McMaster Carr catalog. Sears under Stainless Steel Adjustable Draw Latches. IThey are pretty inexpensive and rated for 400 lbs. I tried several sets of those nice latches from Winners Circle and after breaking 4 of them went to these from McMaster Carr. Two small self tapping screws to mount and away you go. You need to be able to do adjustments to the latches as the bonnet will take on a slightly different shape after it gets mounted and latches down. SPitfire latches really look cool but a PITA to mount and fit. Frank used them on his Sprite with the fiberglass Speedwell Bonnet but big difference repairing fiberglass than metal.
Need pics, let me know and I can send.
Jim_Gruber
Yoda
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BTW, if I can ever close this deal on Bugsy II I've been working on for the last year. A set of Gerard's beautiful front tilting hinges will be part of my shopping list. Polished Stainless and they really look nice.
Gerard
Luke Skywalker
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Hi Jim,
Thank you for the generous comments.
I do now provide the complete kit, including all the hardware, but they are not stainless, but rather polished aluminum. They are precision cut and hand finished; available in grained finish or polished. If someone wants stainless, I could probably have them done, but so far, no one has even wanted to pay a few bucks extra for having them polished.
Thank you for the generous comments.
I do now provide the complete kit, including all the hardware, but they are not stainless, but rather polished aluminum. They are precision cut and hand finished; available in grained finish or polished. If someone wants stainless, I could probably have them done, but so far, no one has even wanted to pay a few bucks extra for having them polished.
Jim_Gruber
Yoda
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Jack, Latches are seen. This is a really simple latch on the outside and fairly small. About to walk out the door for vacation for the week but will provide Pics when I return Sunday next week.