• Hi there Guest - Welcome to the New BCF!! This has been a long process and I'm sure there will be some kinks to work out, but as of today, Feb 22nd, the British Car Forum has been migrated to this new forum platform! There is much that is similar to the old BCF but also much that is different. Please give it a chance as with all things new and shiny it will take a little getting used to. However, I'm coinfident that, once you get used to it, you will find it a much more user friendly platform than the previous, outdated software.

TR2/3/3A Have exchanged one leak for another.

DavidApp

Yoda
Gold
Offline
When I moved the car out of the garage to finish the work on the OD I noticed a wet spot on the garage floor. It was antifreeze from the engine block drain valve.

It was replaced when I did the engime a couple of years ago. Called TRF to order one but they said they were out of stock and could not get any because of quality issues. (Leaking after 2 years?) I do not know where my one came from but plan to plug it up leaving the drain valve in place to look original. It is just about impossible to reach if you have the carb hear shield fitted.

While looking for my spare valve I came across these. Got left off when I installed the engine last time.
Engine mount plates s.jpg
As I have to remove the engine mount bolts to fit the brackets I plan to try to scoot the engine forward a fraction as the yellow plastic fan is almost hitting the cross tube.

David
 

CJD

Yoda
Offline
That's good news that that drain valve is able to leak...since it gets clogged up if the inside of the engine gets scaly. So that's a bright side to look at?!?
 

M_Pied_Lourd

Darth Vader
Offline
Yeah, I tried to repair the petcock on my TR250 and it is leaking as well....I tried to order a new one from Moss but like TRF, they are out of stock. I’m just going to use a regular plug and fibre washer that Moss does have in stock..

Cheers,
Tush
 

CJD

Yoda
Offline
Another thought...if you take the valve apart and reassembly using thick grease it should seal until you find a replacement valve or plug.
 

Graham H

Jedi Warrior
Gold
Offline
I had the same problem so i used a cheep Chinese job from an old compressor, it's a tapered thread with a bonus outlet thread to attach a hose to direct the water away from the engine and chassis and because its under the manifold who will know?IMG_1865.jpg
 

M_Pied_Lourd

Darth Vader
Offline
Another thought...if you take the valve apart and reassembly using thick grease it should seal until you find a replacement valve or plug.

Does reassembling with JB weld count? :wink-new:

Cheers,
Tush
 

CJD

Yoda
Offline
Both sound like good options! I spent a lot of time making mine dry, but can't say I have ever used it to actually drain the block.
 

DavidApp

Yoda
Gold
Offline
I drained the system so I could remove the lower radiator hose so I could get to the driver side front engine mount bolt. Having got all the coolant out I removed the block valve and was surprised how much water came out of the block. The block is clear as it is only 2 years since the rebuild.

First attempt was with grease on the valve but it still leaked. Second attempt I put some candle wax in the valve on the engine side then warmed the valve to melt the wax. So far it is holding. I did not dismantle the valve as I could see getting the split pin back in could be a problem.

On the other job I did manage to move the engine forward a fraction giving me a little more clearance on the fan.

David
 

Sarastro

Darth Vader
Gold
Offline
Those %$*@!! valves always leak! I just replace them with a plug. It's a bit harder to reach, but it's not like I drain the coolant every week.

For my TR engine, I soft-soldered a washer to a bolt, creating a kind of flange bolt, and made a plastic washer from Delrin. It's not leaking (so far!)
plug.jpg
 
Top