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TR2/3/3A Has anyone tried to rewind/fix a fuel tank sending unit?

Got_All_4

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Found out whay the sending unit stopped working. Brake in the coil wire. Looks simple enough to fix but where would I get the wire? What problems did you run into?
 

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Don't know about yours, but in my TR6 sender, the total resistance appears to be several hundred ohms, so I doubt that it is copper.

Ed
 
Thought about that much later.

They may sell resistance wire as they sell a huge selection of odd parts.

David
 
Have you tried removing a turn on each side of the break and then tie them back together. A couple of turns removed is not going to change guage readings enough that it won't read close.

Marv
 
Actually thought of that Marv but was going to solder it. The windings have to be tight and I was afraid that the they would come loose. Ya I can go to Team Triumph and buy a new one tomorrow but I just bought this one 3 or 4 years ago years ago. plus I just broke the choke cable and a bunch of other unexpected parts needed replaced and very few $ left in the kitty. I'll try this first.
 
I would suggest measuring a 12" section of the wire, dividing that by 12 and look up nichrome resistance wire resistance per inch. There are two different primary compositions of nichrome, find the correct gauge and class. Then you need to rewind the sender with the appropriate length and number of turns of wire.
To be honest, I am working on something very similar on my Mercedes, and not familiar with your car, but the theory is pretty much the same.
 
The modern disposable world...

I have often thought about rewinding coils, but finding wire is not easy. I still remember when every hardware store carried it. Now not even Radio Shack does.
 
I have tried soldering the breaks. It is not easy even with acid flux. Nichrome just does not solder well. If you look closely at your sending unit you are likely to find that the ends of the wire are riveted to connections, not soldered.

That said, you can try losing a coil/wrap, scraping the wire to expose "cleaner" metal, and using acid flux to join the twisted together broken ends. You might get lucky. However, after trying this a couple of times I gave up and now just buy replacement senders.
 
I remember a couple of years ago that the wire that makes the connection to the wiring harness was broke. It took many attempts to make a good soldered connection. When I opened it up this time the connection was green. The wire looks copperish. Doing some research I thought that high resistance magnetic wire would work. It gave many uses including a potentiometer.
 
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