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Has anyone successfully patched a leaking tank?

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neilh

neilh

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The tank on my 79 has probably not had gas in it for about 12 years. I added a drop of gas to check it, and it has a slow leak in the base ( rust!).
I know i'll probably need to replace it, but a temporary patch so i can test the engine would be nice, any suggestions - JB weld, bondo ????
Neil
 
There is a type of epoxy just for gas tanks. I've used it before for a temporary fix. (I sold the car several years later and never did a permanent fix). However, if the tank is that rusty you will need to clean and seal the inside to keep the junk out of the fuel pump and carbs. By the time you do all this... maybe you would be better to buy a new tank?
 
I did mine with some stuff called Red Kote, bought it off ebay for 30 bucks. It can be thinned with acetone. I did my tank and still have enough left to do another sometime. Its the same red stuff that they use at radiator shops. Just remeber to get in there and break a hole in that screen in the tank and put your own filter in line before the pump.
 
If you're just testing the engine, use a gas can like for a small outboard boat. The epoxy stuff works, but best to have the tank empty when putting it on. As for the internal rust, maybe it isn't so much that it would clog a filter in 2 minutes, but almost certainly in 5. Seriously, change the tank, even with a temporary one, insted of trying to make that one work.
Cheers, Donn.
 
I have heard a lot of good things about Red Kote. I believe it's uses on aviation products. I have used both Kreem and the tank lining kit from POR-15.

I really like the POR tank lining kit. As mentioned above you have to drop the tank and clean it (the required supplies come with the kit) and eventually apply the coating. The nice thing about the POR kit (other than using relatively safe chemicals) is that it leaves a metallic looking coat inside the tank. I don't know if this would matter on a Spridget, but on the Mini (for example) you're looking right into the tank when you remove the filler cap. It's nice that the tank still looks metallic inside.
 
Back in his hot-rodding days, my dad claims he would put a couple of handfuls of jagged gravel in the tank with a little bit of clean gas. Shake and rinse thoroughly, then braze any holes exposed. Of couse, in those days of "innocence" he probably rinsed into the storm sewer with gas pouring directly from the pump. Also, my PawPaw owned gas stations and radiator shops, so parts and supplys where cheap for him.
 
EEEEEEK. ... Do not braze or weld on a used gas tank. Leave it to the professionals. Even the smallest amount of gas vapors can cause a large explosion.
 
I repaired the tank on my big healey when it first went back on the road. That was 15 years ago and its never leaked. I used a can of stuff bought from a specialist here in the UK, though I think they imported it from US
 
I have put some Phenoseal (water based)caulk on the threads of a screw to repair a hole in a gas tank (stone kick up hole) and it was fine for a few years. Do not use an oil base caulk, gas will dissolve it. I also fiberglassed the outside of a tank and it was fine for over a year and still is I guess, sold that car.
 
Just got out from under the car.. on close inspection looks like someone in the past used a lift jack under the tank, it has indentations that would match. In doing so the may have caused a hair line crack, and attempted to bondo it.
The bondo has cracked away, so I sanded it all off and can see a tiny crack. No visible signs of rust on outside. The tank is painted a dul light yellow color - clearly not original.
I have applied JB weld and will be building up the area slowly to see if it will at least hold while i test run and finish teh rebuild!
 
I didn't mention this above... but you can strip the outside affected areas to sound, bare metal and using acid flux and a plumber's (electric) soldering iron close the holes with solder. If you've got a bunch though... the sloshing compound mentioned above are a better choice.
 
Or in this case just take it to a radiator shop to get it soldered-up. They will probably just solder a penny over the crack and it will last a VERY long time, otherwise just buy a used tank- San Diego is pretty easy about rust on cars and there should be a lot of good used tanks in the MG or Healy clubs.
Bill
 
Pump will pull from any container, use a peice of flex fuel line.

Yep a radiator shop will boil, and repair radiator and seal inside as well. Worth doing. Maybe 125 bucks.
 
The JB weld is holding fine, no leaks at all now....
Jack,
I ran some gas into the inlet of the pump and it pumped it out, so I think its ok - but its not sucking gas from the tank, so more investigation needed.... may be a bad pump anyway...
 
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