Has anyone ever ..............

[AweMan]

Had the dual Brake/Clutch master cylinder {the one on the EARLY Tr-2&3s sleeved?} At $400+ for a repro. I would at least like to get an estimate. I did email one company for this info {cant recall the name right off} but got NO response.

 

[martx-5]

I haven't had it done, but Apple Hydraulics does them. On his web site, he shows a $195 price. I would imagine that includes a complete redo plus the sleeving.

 

[Banjo]

Yup. Have used a couple of Apples' resleeved twin cylinders. Good quality. I'm sure that's who will get mine when the time comes
Still debating over using the original drum setup. or converting TS5012 over to the Disk brakes I have left over from a TR4A I parted. If I do, then I won't be using the twin cylinder, but otherwise It'll go original.

 

[AweMan]

Thanx Guys,
I see the M.C. I want/need on thier website, When ready I will call about getting the S.S. sleve. Saves about half of the price of a repro. Im not building a concourse but I would like to keep as many of the O.E.M. parts as possible on this car.
Thanks again
Kerry

 

[kc_doyle]

Would it be possable to just run a hone through the bore? I just had my brake master done that way. Of course there is a limit to how much they can cut away, but mine was very pitted and it worked.

 

[Scott_Hower]

Might also try White Post Restoration, they can sleeve it as well and do great work.

https://www.whitepost.com/brake.html

 

[YankeeTR]

Yup. Have used a couple of Apples' resleeved twin cylinders. Good quality. I'm sure that's who will get mine when the time comes
Still debating over using the original drum setup. or converting TS5012 over to the Disk brakes I have left over from a TR4A I parted. If I do, then I won't be using the great timing on this post...

twin cylinder, but otherwise It'll go original.

Okay...I'm pulling out the master cylinder right now...but I don't have a manual...TS 1203 LO.

I removed the four vertical nuts from the m/c bracket under the hood. There are also 3 (?) bolts under the dash that must come out? How does this thing come out? I knew I shoudn't have given away my books when I got rid of TS 74011 L.

The master is frozen so I can't move the pedals...this makes it tuff to remove those bolts from under the dash.

BTW...Joe Curto also does re-sleeving. I've had White Post and Apple do work for me years ago...both were very good.

 

[AweMan]

I removed the two Horizontal bolts that go through the M.C. that hold it to the bracket, remove the pedal assembly clevis pins from the M.C. pushrods remove both pushrods from the M.C. and both hydrolic lines. Once the M.C. is clear of the bracket you can access the heads of the of those "Under" the dash bolts you refer to in order to get the bracket off of the bulkhead. If you remove the W.W. motor assembly it gives you a little more access too.
B.T.W. dont let that M.C. mounting bracket get misplaced, It isnt even listed in the catalogues as N/A. In otherwords it is NOT TO BE FOUND short of obtaining one from another car.

 

[YankeeTR]

I removed the two Horizontal bolts that go through the M.C. that hold it to the bracket, remove the pedal assembly clevis pins from the M.C. pushrods remove both pushrods from the M.C. and both hydrolic lines. Once the M.C. is clear of the bracket you can access the heads of the of those "Under" the dash bolts you refer to in order to get the bracket off of the bulkhead. If you remove the W.W. motor assembly it gives you a little more access too.
B.T.W. dont let that M.C. mounting bracket get misplaced, It isnt even listed in the catalogues as N/A. In otherwords it is NOT TO BE FOUND short of obtaining one from another car.

I must be pretty dense this week.

How do I get the rear horizontal bolt out of the master cylinder without taking off the whole bracket? There isn't enough clearance to get the rear one out.

I have an early TR2 so the wiper motor is on the right side of the firewall.

I should probably post a pic of my dilemma...

 

[AweMan]

Ok:
YankeeTR I just went out and looked at mine again, Now I distinctly remember.
You will have to remove the bracket from the bulkhead.
There are six bolts that hole the M.C. bracket to the bulkhead.

You may want to remove the clutch/Brake pedal assembly for easy access. {I did}
The two forward most bolts {the ones closest to the steering wheel have weld nuts on the bracket so you will not need a wrench to hold the nuts} the four bolts {under the pushrods} have nuts {not weld nuts} use a box end wreanch on the bracket side, socket and wratchet from underneath.
As I remember I think I just vice gripped the four with nuts.
you may need to get an assistant to hold the nuts/bolts one side or the other.
Sorry for the misleading info the first time around, it had been a long time sence I did this removal.

 

[YankeeTR]

Ok:
YankeeTR I just went out and looked at mine again, Now I distinctly remember.
You will have to remove the bracket from the bulkhead.
There are six bolts that hole the M.C. bracket to the bulkhead.

You may want to remove the clutch/Brake pedal assembly for easy access. {I did}
The two forward most bolts {the ones closest to the steering wheel have weld nuts on the bracket so you will not need a wrench to hold the nuts} the four bolts {under the pushrods} have nuts {not weld nuts} use a box end wreanch on the bracket side, socket and wratchet from underneath.
As I remember I think I just vice gripped the four with nuts.
you may need to get an assistant to hold the nuts/bolts one side or the other.
Sorry for the misleading info the first time around, it had been a long time sence I did this removal.

Thanks...

It looks like I just need to get the pedals to move a little and I'll be able to access the last bolt under the dash. Then I can remove the pedals and get it out...thanks.