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Hardened/strong head studs on a 1275 - torque?

Boink

Yoda
Bronze
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So, my Sprite (with 1275) has those black, hardened, super-strong head studs (and nuts to go with them). They're nice.

It's time to retorque it all after replacing/rebuilding the head (and have had several heating cycles)... and wondering if I should go above the standard 40lbs to 45 or so?
 
Boink said:
So, my Sprite (with 1275) has those black, hardened, super-strong head studs (and nuts to go with them). They're nice.

It's time to retorque it all after replacing/rebuilding the head (and have had several heating cycles)... and wondering if I should go above the standard 40lbs to 45 or so?

Do you mean the ARP fasteners? It depends on whether you used the supplied lubricant or not. Stock 1275 head studs (with drill point or "22" stamped on the end) are 50 lbs. You could probably go to 50 or 55 with the ARP if desired, but supposedly isn't necessary with the supplied lubricant.
 
Gosh, need to re-check them. I didn't buy them, but they are "new" and certainly appear to be the newer type, but I'll check. Thanks all.
 
I torque to 50 lb-ft using a little motor oil on the threads for the following head stud types. Be sure to use good washers and nuts. ARP comes with these, but many engines are a hodge-podge of stuff from a previous owner.

1275 with drill points
1275 with #22 stamped on the top
Longman/Cooper S with 'Y' in the tops of the short studs
ARP aftermarket

Dry and moly lubricated are different torques.

Mike Miller
Comptune
 
Thanks.
 
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